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 ADVANCED
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Grace S 
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 
Fastest Drill S 
Grapefruit Dance S 
Indecent Exposure T 
Men at Work T,S 
Over the Rainbow T,S 
Pete & Bob's T 
Pillar Climb T 
Rainbow Bridge T,S 
Trigger Finger S,TR 
Unzipped S,TR 
Warren - Johnson S,TR 
Zipper, The T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Fastest Drill 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ed Webster, Mack Johnson, Dave Sweet, 4/78
Page Views: 1,110
Submitted By: Brian T. Wandzilak on Jan 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Jon Cannon, starting up Fastest Drill.

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  • Description 

    The route name could also by the "Quickest Drill". Traverse left from the Cowboy Boot Crack ledge to the leftmost line of bolts. It is a long exposed traverse with zero protection. Once you clip the first hanger, head up. The crux is just above the second bolt. It is a balancy step up. Commit to it, clip the third bolt and get to the anchors. This can be top-roped (like Trigger Finger and Cowboy Boot Crack) from the large ledge, barely. The belayer should tie a knot in the end of your rope (as always) and be prepared to step up the rock a bit.

    Addendum: follow the first 2 or so pins on Trigger Finger. When TF goes straight up, you can follow Fastest Drill to the left. It shares the same anchors as Unzipped. They are kind of left of center at the bottom of the dome (about even with the climber's feet in the Trigger Finger pic).

    Protection 

    5 QDs for 5 bolts/pins plus two anchor pins (all of them solid).

    The anchor pins have been replaced with 2 large bolts.


    Photos of Fastest Drill Slideshow Add Photo
    Chuck Grossman. 1981.
    Chuck Grossman. 1981.

    Comments on Fastest Drill Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jon Cannon
    Jan 10, 2003

    One brief comment: As Brian woefully discovered, the best route is to head *straight* to the left. Don't angle left and up toward the first pin, go straight left and then up to the pin. For the third bolt, ya just gotta commit. A very enjoyable route. And, as much as I hate to admit it, nice lead, Brian.
    By Jon Cannon
    Jan 14, 2003

    One other thing: if the belayer anchors into that big-ass rock down on that broad area at the base of Cowboy Boot Crack, s/he *should* be able to arrest the intrepid leader's fall before s/he decks.
    By Brian T. Wandzilak
    Apr 30, 2003

    Thanks for the props, JC. It was fairly satisfying I have to admit. I only have one problem with the route though. I am still waiting for a member of the Nebraska contingent to sac up and lead this thing.
    By Brian T. Wandzilak
    Oct 10, 2003

    ATTENTION: After further research and guidebook consultation, this route is NOT named "Fastest Drill". The real route name is "Unzipped" and it is in the Falcon guide as a 5.7+. All over the other beta is correct though. Like I said in the route description this is way more run out than a 5.7 should be, but a fun route nonetheless.

    For more clarification, here is some beta on the actual "Fastest Drill" route. Fastest Drill follows the first 2 or so pins on Trigger Finger. When TF goes straight up, you can follow Fastest Drill to the left. It shares the same anchors as Unzipped. They are kind of left of center at the bottom of the dome (about even w/ the climber's feet in the Trigger Finger Pic).
    By Larry Shaw
    Dec 24, 2003

    For a good TR variation, climb to the second bolt of Unzipped, then head straight up to the last bolt of Fastest Drill...there are some blank sections but enough edges to suffice...I give it a .9 or .10.
    By Bosier Parsons
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    May 16, 2008

    If you want, it is possible to place a good cam on the traverse, but hard to say if it would help much anyway. About 1/2".