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This is the left crack system between Politicians, Priests, and Bodybags and The John Roskelly Show. The upper part is visible in the photo below as the right-leaning twin cracks on the left side of the photo.
This climb seems to involve devious powerful moves between large ledges. Start at an overhanging crack and reach up for a "thank god handhold". From this ledge, a very thin crack continues, but I was unable to get my fingers into this crack and it seems a bit over 5.8. If you move right a few feet, some devious moves will get you onto the next ledge at the grade.
The upper part of the route follows nice twin cracks, exiting using the left crack. There is no anchor on top, but if you belay from gear you can easily walk back down by walking east 50 feet to an easy gully. Alternatively, you can lower off the anchor for Politicians, Priests, and Bodybags, but this is somewhat awkward to reach.
Pro to 2.5" with emphasis on cams under 1". Closely-spaced 2 bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Fast Boat to China. The easiest start uses the cr...
Lower in the climb going up the left side of the r...
Bruno Hache low on the route. He placed pro in th...
BETA PHOTO: Fast Boat to China, Politicians Priests and Body B...
Ron Olsen using the same stem as Bruno Hache in th...
Near the bottom after the difficult start.
|By richard berk|
From: Denver, CO
Feb 3, 2003
The FA of this route was in '92 by Scott Berk, free solo. I think it is one of the funner trad leads at NT.
|By Anthony Everhart|
Feb 4, 2003
Near the top go right for a good short section of hand crack. Bring plenty of #3 Friends for the belay and the crack.
|By shad O'Neel|
Apr 10, 2003
A great crack climb, but seemed way harder than 5.8. The thin crack George speaks of was too small for my fingers as well, and I fell a few times trying it. Then, it's pure fun though. I climbed Politicians etc. next and found it to be easier even the the grade suggests 2 grades harder.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
This is a fabulous pitch, and would merit three stars even if it were in Eldorado. Sustained, interesting climbing from bottom to top.
The easiest line starts in a crack to the right, then steps left to a good ledge. Place pro in the thin corner to the left, but climb to the right to keep the difficulty at 5.8+.
Near the end, you can angle up left to the anchor on "Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags" and lower, or layback up a hand crack to the right and belay from the top.
Pro: blue Alien to #2 Camalot; doubles on the #.75, #1, and #2 Camalots were useful.
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Dec 1, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
This is an excellent gear route in Golden Cliffs. We knocked it off just as the rains came today. Getting on the little shelf in the dihedral was probably the crux, but later there are some thoughtful sequences that you could just smear or take the time to work out. Pro is great the whole way. I concur with Ron's rating, too. A bit harder than other 5.8s at the crag.
From: Bear Creek, CO
Apr 27, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
This route now sports a nice two bolt anchor at the top.
|By rob bauer|
From: Golden, CO
Nov 1, 2009
Gosh, I've always thought that THIS was PP&BB, (so I was apparently lost, but I did it way over 10 yrs ago with the R&I topo?). [It's amazing what you learn with a book.] If you stay in the thin crack/acute corner, it seems 5.9+ [awkward with my size fingers] if you don't stem too much. (Further, I thought that the crack just right was an easier variation.) I stay in the corner until I get to the 2 bolt anchor. (I used nuts today and nothing larger than a 0.75 Camalot, though I essentially soloed to the 1st ledge.) So, jump on it if you're a trad climber and amaze the passerbys!
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Awkward at the base and harder than 5.8 at the thin fingers section. Good though.