Most trips to the Contest Wall in Sand Gulch lead me to Farts. Loads better than the name might indicate, Farts of Horsemen is near the North end of the canyon but well before the cross-over trail. Climbing is on a dark, inset wall off a mound/block above the trail, and Farts shares an anchor with No Tomorrow, on the right. Start off on a small section of less than optimal stone and make a right traverse on crystals and friable appearing stone. For me, the hard climbing starts just as soon as you step over right. A bit of seam gets things going, and the opening moves feel 5.12a to me. Climbing after the first 30 feet settles down a bit but never drops below middle 5.11. Climbing is interesting and varied on crystals, cobbles, and shallow pockets. Overall continuity is excellent, and Farts gives up very little rest. For my preferred style of climbing, I would rank Farts on par with Little Mecca for overall quality, soundness of the stone, continuity, and interesting moves. This is an excellent line.
Ten or so draws and a rope.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
opening crux technical sequence above the rotten shelf felt a bit awkward and desperate, with off-balance layaways, and tricky feetwork.
Getting to the anchors directly i admit to be height-dependent, cranking off the last good mono, i skipped the weird left-facing slopey flake, and up to a good crimp below the anchor bolts.