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Contest Wall
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Farts of Horsemen S 
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Little Mecca S 
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Trick-or-Treat TR 
Truancy S 
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Vail Athletic Club S 
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Zia S 
Unsorted Routes:

Farts of Horsemen 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Unpublished
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

Most trips to the Contest Wall in Sand Gulch lead me to Farts. Loads better than the name might indicate, Farts of Horsemen is near the North end of the canyon but well before the cross-over trail. Climbing is on a dark, inset wall off a mound/block above the trail, and Farts shares an anchor with No Tomorrow, on the right.

Start off on a small section of less than optimal stone, and make a right traverse on crystals and friable appearing stone. For me, the hard climbing starts just as soon as you step over right. A bit of seam gets things going, and the opening moves feel 5.12a to me. Climbing after the first 30 feet settles down a bit but never drops below middle 5.11. The climbing is interesting and varied on crystals, cobbles, and shallow pockets.

Overall, the continuity is excellent, and Farts gives up very little rest. For my preferred style of climbing, I would rank Farts on par with Little Mecca for overall quality, soundness of the stone, continuity, and interesting moves. This is an excellent line.

Protection 

Ten or so draws and a rope.


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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

opening crux technical sequence above the rotten shelf felt a bit awkward and desperate, with off-balance layaways, and tricky feetwork.
Getting to the anchors directly i admit to be height-dependent, cranking off the last good mono, i skipped the weird left-facing slopey flake, and up to a good crimp below the anchor bolts.
By Darryl Roth
Sep 20, 2014

I was pleased when Todd Skinner broke into laughter (as was common for Todd) as he told me he was bummed to not have thought of it for a route name of his own. The name is a play on "Tarts of Horsham" at Hueco.