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 ADVANCED
Farside

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Farside  


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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: ClimbFit on Nov 20, 2010
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Description 

"Farside" is a new crag which is being developed by the famous John Gregory and friends. This past weekend Mr. Gregory along with his two sons, Ian and Chris worked and several other friends worked very hard to put up the new routes. They have been busy working on this area, coming out and cleaning the routes every weekend for the past few weeks.

There are 7 routes on this face. 6 of them have been led so far. There is 1 sport route, a mixed sport and trad route and 5 trad routes.

All of the routes have been led except for one.

If you decide to climb here before it is finished please be courteous to those who are putting in all of the hard work and give them the right to make the FA.

Here is a link to a forum with route information and topo's.

uaeclimbing.com/forum/viewtopi...
redarmadapublishing.com/nearsi...

Below are useful links where you can find .pdf files on areas not printed in the guide book, other climbers, info, topos....

www.redarmadapublishing.com/updates.php This is the Guide Book
www.foordkelcey.net/uae/
www.facebook.com/#!/group.php?gid=10128914047
uaeclimbing.blogspot.com/
www.uaeclimbing.com/forum/
www.omanclimbing.com/forum/index.php
arabiaoutdoor.com An excellent well know guide

Getting There 

After the Wadi Bih sign follow the road for 5km to the t-junction. Turn right and drive for 8km where you will find a left turn (go left, if you go right you will run into the border post). Near Side/Junction is about 12km past the turn on the left and 4km past Dickinadozer/Cleavage. Near Side/Junction is visible on the right (East) next to the road. Far Side is across the road from Near Side, on the left.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.1 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Farside
I would say that this route has two possible crux'...

Angels Way 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Asia : United Arab Emirates : ... : Farside
This is an amazing route; it goes right the widest crack/chimney on the face. It is a very challenging and difficult route but one of the most fun routes I have ever climbed. You will use just about every climbing move that you know. There are actually 3 crux on this route. The cruxes are at the overhangs. The "crux" is at the giant block/chockstone in the middle. The only thing that I disliked about the route was that it was extremely dirty, a few times I had dirt fly into my eyes. Th...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Farside Add Comment
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By ClimbFit
From: Dubai,
Dec 1, 2010
There are now seven routes in this area. 5 trad and 2 sport. 6 of the routes have been led, there is one that is still open to a FA but it may become a sport route soon due to the lack of gear placement.

So far only one of the routes has a name and grade. Once the rest are named and graded I will post them.