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This crag is a super massive boulder perched on the hill-side between Farmington Canyon and Steed Canyon. I stumbled upon it one day while hiking a spur trail that leads up to the crag. I do not know who originally developed the crag. As of this writing, it isn't climbed much, so not all of the holds are clean. There were a number of fixed anchors installed all around the top of the crag. One of the older-style fixed anchors was installed on a boulder precariously perched on the edge of the top of the crag. This boulder appears to be set quite well, but use it at your own risk. We have since installed additional anchors and bolts where needed for our own additional routes.
Get on E 200 S in Farmington and follow it East until you find a dirt road. Park somewhere and hike East up to the fire-break road. Directly across from the fire-break road, you'll find a trail that heads North to Flag Rock. Well before reaching Flag Rock, find the spur trail that heads East to the crag.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Farmington Crag:
Suck it Up Princess 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Farmington Crag
Repent Now or Die 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag
This climb fallows the flakes curving from the left and up to the middle. These are fun underclings! Near the top is an overhang with a diving board feature in the way. Don't short change yourself on this climb! Pull the roof! It's tempting to go around it, but I'm going to designate that as off route!I marked the FA as TBD, because I don't think anyone has climbed this before, but having rope-solod it, claiming an FA doesn't seem right. I didn't weight the system so I believe I free-climb...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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