Farmington Crag Rock Climbing
View from the approach/descent. This is the west b...
This crag is a super massive boulder perched on the hill-side between Farmington Canyon and Steed Canyon. I stumbled upon it one day while hiking a spur trail that leads up to the crag. I do not know who originally developed the crag. As of this writing, it isn't climbed much, so not all of the holds are clean. There were a number of fixed anchors installed all around the top of the crag. One of the older-style fixed anchors was installed on a boulder precariously perched on the edge of the top of the crag. This boulder appears to be set quite well, but use it at your own risk. We have since installed additional anchors and bolts where needed for our own additional routes.
The Farmington Crag refers collectively to the main crag and the island crags surrounding it. Currently there are no trails and so it's a bit bush-wacky. Be very careful of rock fall! While hiking near the long-wall crag East of the main crag yesterday, I dislodged a massive boulder that went thundering down the hill-side! Seeing it make such destruction as it hurdled down the slope was a sobering reminder of how bad things can go wrong when they do go wrong.
Get on E 200 S in Farmington and follow it East until you find a dirt road. Park somewhere and hike East up to the fire-break road. Directly across from the fire-break road, you'll find a trail that heads North to Flag Rock. Well before reaching Flag Rock, find the spur trail that heads East to the crag.
Weather station 0.7 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Farmington Crag
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Farmington Crag:
Featured Route For Farmington Crag
Klingon Arete 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b UT
: Wasatch Range
: Farmington Crag
Remember the Star Trek: The Next Generation episode where Worf sustains a spinal injury and needs a new spine? Well, this ridge reminded me of that episode, and so that's why I'm calling it the Klingon Arete. The ridge has some Klingon spinal features, especially near the top.This ridge appears to have a number of interesting exits near the top. I took the easiest one. The others looked interesting as they were a bit over-hanging....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 10, 2010
I actually like this area. It has a lot of potential, that being said be prepared for a long hike. We are working on the trail to make it better. Watch for rattlesnakes also, i nearly stepped on one making our way back in the dark. Ryan said that he thinks the place would be a good winter destination. I think he is right, it gets the sun all day. Cheers
May 8, 2011
What a great hiddin gem right in the back yard of Framington. I feel that its is really well protected all the way around the top. the bottom belay areas still need a little tlc but a fun wall never the lease. It would be nice to know which one was which.