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Farmington Canyon

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Butt Crack Buttress 

Farmington Canyon  Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.00338, -111.87363 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,518
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: oliver on Oct 18, 2010
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: View from farther east where you park.

Description 

This is the Canyon Right above Farmington. Most of the rock is pretty unstable and rotten, however, there are a few great climbs and a couple of spots that are being developed.

Getting There 

Take I15 to farmington and follow main street to Farmington Pond/Canyon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Farmington Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Farmington Canyon :
Stinky Knuckles   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Butt Crack Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Farmington Canyon

Featured Route For Farmington Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: This is both Pocket and knuckles.  They start on t...

Pockets Full of Treasure 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Butt Crack Buttress
This is a fantastic climb. If it didn't have bird crap on the first couple of holds this would be a classic climb! Very dynamic climbing leads you from the second bolt to the other side of the arete. The fun section is right after clipping the second bolt but the fun doesn't end there!...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Farmington Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: butcrack butress
BETA PHOTO: butcrack butress

Comments on Farmington Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By e.sodja
Mar 18, 2013
GPS at 41N 11.5245W for the entrance to the canyon. (according to Google Earth)
By Max Hansen
Jun 18, 2014
Whoever has been bolting in this canyon, would you please email me (nmaxhansen@gmail.com). I do not want to impede on "staked territory" but am interested in a piece of rock and would like to talk before I proceed.
By Krista Jensen
May 24, 2016
I have been bolting and free soloing this canyon since 2000, though I started [originally] with rebar (on what's apparently called butt crack buttress) as my resources were limited as a teen, and my climbing wasn't supported by my parents, I was lucky enough to have rope...rebar was the easiest thing for me to get. I have tried using as few permanent anchors as possible, though that wasn't feasible in all cases.

I love this canyon and all it has to offer. Farmington canyon will always be one of the most important parts of my history.
By Penny L
From: Farmington, UT
Jul 25, 2016
Wear your climbing pants for this rock, it can cut you up a little. Two guys climbing it as we came up both left blood on the rocks, and my partner did too. I always wear pants, so I left unscathed, except for a scraped up knuckle.

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