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Sugarloaf, East Face
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Eric Beck, Steve Roper, mid-1960's
Page Views: 3,416
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jan 22, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Climbers on the seldom-done third pitch, the "Knob...


Farley is an obvious right facing lieback flake, just uphill from Scheister. starts as easy fingers and thin hands, and develops into a physical lieback.

Most people only do the first pitch and lower/rap off the bolted anchor, but you can continue up the wide chimney.


Just uphill from Scheister and Blue Velvet.


cams. .5 camalot to 3 camalot. You can place a #4 camalot, and a second #3 would be ideal.

Photos of Farley Slideshow Add Photo
Laying back the impressive Farley flake.
Laying back the impressive Farley flake.
The start of Farley.
BETA PHOTO: The start of Farley.
Comments on Farley Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 7, 2013
By ShibbyShane
From: Estes Park, CO
Feb 20, 2010

Fun route. There's good stances to rest and place gear every 6-8 feet. Be sure to use them, otherwise you'll get super pumped.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 2, 2010

Everyone got me all riled up about this route's "physical-ness," "hard 5.9-ness" etc. It is not hard for the grade and it did not seem strenuous to me either. And I'm not really that let that inspire you if you have any doubts!

By T_jones
From: Salty Lake
Sep 15, 2010

Only 3 stars? This is one of the most obvious and gorgeous lines on the east face. It's not a hard 5.9 but super classic!

By beachplus4
From: So San Francisco
Nov 14, 2010

This is a great and very fun line. It is very straight forward, which can be good or bad depending on the climber. Bottom line if you are there DO IT!!!!

By Jason Ogasian
Oct 15, 2012

One protection bolt replaced on last pitch in 2011 thanks to support from the ASCA.


By Nick_Cov
From: Truckee, CA
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I was warned that it is pumpy and physically demanding, but it really isn't. Good stances and slabby. I only brought one #3 and one #4, definitely not enough. Would have much rather had two #3s...

By Mitchell Rhodes
Apr 17, 2013

onsight freesolo. amazing

By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
May 2, 2013

Just wanted to echo Nick_Cov's comment. It looks intimidating and pumpy from the ground, but there are quite a few good stances to rest and place gear. There's a surprising number of good holds on the flake itself, and good footholds on the right face. Two #3's and a #4 work great thru the top section.

After Leading it, I did TR it only lie-backing the whole thing - now that is pumpy!

By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
May 8, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is actually a three pitch route, although I am sure lots of folks only do the first. The third pitch was fun, but heady as I remember it. Only one or two bolts on the knobby wall section in a 60ish' span.

By Gordy Ainsleigh
Nov 3, 2013

This is not a climb to be taken lightly. One climber has already died on the first pitch. The crack gets too wide for placing ordinary protection from a layback position, so if a climber misses the tiny foothold shelf on the outside of the flake halfway to the xenolith, and doesn't stop to stick a piece deep into the narrowing recesses of the crack, it becomes a run for the xenolith, with a groundfall to the shelf far below a very real possibility.

Also, you really should try the whole route. Taking the knobby traverse 5.7 variation on the 3rd pitch will have you doing Spiderman imitations right above the lip of the Grand Illusion roof, with nothing but open air between you and the main drag of the Hamlet of Kyburz, far below.

AND...when you get to the top of the 5.7, don't take the anticlimactic slog to the right or left along the seam of the huge summit boulder, followed by an even more anticlimactic walk up the backside to the summit. Instead, take one of the two direct finish variations that I bolted in the early 90s. The 2-bolt 5.10b that I called "Farley Mowat" goes straight up from the finish of the 5.7, on the left side of the gully going down to Grand Illusion. A few steps to the right, directly above the Grand Illusion gully, is the 1-bolt 5.10a "Never Cry Wolf". I fell on that one before I put in the bolt, and as my last pro was at my feet when I started up, it was a dandy fall, complete with an A-C separation of my shoulder and nearly going off the Grand Illusion roof. So clip my bolts and enjoy a thrilling finish to a great climb.

When you get to the top, look for the belay bolts I placed so that you can be secure against a partner's fall, a definite possibility on either of the direct finishes.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Whoa, whoa there Gordy. There is absolutely no reason that you should be risking a ground fall on Farley. You can sew the first pitch up top to bottom. Even at the top where it gets wide, if you brought something big you can place it.

I actually don't think Farley is all that great of a route, but I would hate for someone to miss out on it because of your description.

By Sara Ann
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Nov 7, 2013

I was a newish 5.9 leader at the time, and was super intimidated by this climb, but onsighted no problem! Plenty of stances to place pieces.