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Laying back the impressive Farley flake.
Farley is an obvious right facing lieback flake, just uphill from Scheister. starts as easy fingers and thin hands, and develops into a physical lieback.
Most people only do the first pitch and lower/rap off the bolted anchor, but you can continue up the wide chimney.
Just uphill from Scheister and Blue Velvet.
cams. .5 camalot to 3 camalot. You can place a #4 camalot, and a second #3 would be ideal.
BETA PHOTO: The start of Farley.
Climbers on the seldom-done third pitch, the "Knob...
From: Estes Park, CO
Feb 20, 2010
Fun route. There's good stances to rest and place gear every 6-8 feet. Be sure to use them, otherwise you'll get super pumped.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 2, 2010
Everyone got me all riled up about this route's "physical-ness," "hard 5.9-ness" etc. It is not hard for the grade and it did not seem strenuous to me either. And I'm not really that strong...so let that inspire you if you have any doubts!
From: Salty Lake
Sep 15, 2010
Only 3 stars? This is one of the most obvious and gorgeous lines on the east face. It's not a hard 5.9 but super classic!
From: So San Francisco
Nov 14, 2010
This is a great and very fun line. It is very straight forward, which can be good or bad depending on the climber. Bottom line if you are there DO IT!!!!
From: Truckee, CA
Dec 9, 2012
I was warned that it is pumpy and physically demanding, but it really isn't. Good stances and slabby. I only brought one #3 and one #4, definitely not enough. Would have much rather had two #3s...
From: Reno, NV
May 2, 2013
Just wanted to echo Nick_Cov's comment. It looks intimidating and pumpy from the ground, but there are quite a few good stances to rest and place gear. There's a surprising number of good holds on the flake itself, and good footholds on the right face. Two #3's and a #4 work great thru the top section.
After Leading it, I did TR it only lie-backing the whole thing - now that is pumpy!
From: Rocklin, Ca
May 8, 2013
This is actually a three pitch route, although I am sure lots of folks only do the first. The third pitch was fun, but heady as I remember it. Only one or two bolts on the knobby wall section in a 60ish' span.