Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Snowshed Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial S 
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 
Bell Bottom Blues T 
Bottomless Topless T,TR 
Brain Child S 
Bypass T 
Cannibals S 
Composure T 
Conform or Be Cast Out S 
Crack of the Eighties T 
Devaluation T 
Devaluation Direct T 
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 
Drop Out Left T 
Drop Out Right T 
Farewell to Arms T 
Hair and Now S 
Hair Lip T 
Hair Shirt T,TR 
Jam Session T 
Karl's Gym T 
Little Feat S,TR 
Manic Depression T 
Missing Mind S 
Molar Concentration T 
Mole's Corner T 
Monkey Paws T,TR 
Night Country T 
Nova Express T 
Palsy T,TR 
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 
Panic in Detroit T,TR 
Pea Soup T 
Peter Principle T,TR 
Pump Lust S 
Rage Reduction T 
Rapid Transit T 
Rick and Eric's T 
Sanitation Crack T,TR 
Side Effect T,TR 
Split Pea T 
Telegraph Crack T 
Thing, The T 
Two Fingers Gold T 
Welcome to My Nightmare T 

Farewell to Arms 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Karl Hammer, John Hoffman, 1976.
Page Views: 3,467
Submitted By: Blitzo on Nov 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Angie Price @ crux. Thin hands/loose fingers for s...

Description 

This is the pumper crack on the left of the East Face. It leans slightly left.

Protection 

Pro to 3"


Comments on Farewell to Arms Add Comment
Show which comments
By 426
Mar 8, 2007

Don't miss this if you like steep hand cracks!
By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 24, 2008

Fitting name. It definitely gets pumpy towards the end!
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 8, 2009

Great description Blitzo. This climb is not to be missed!
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Jul 4, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I found the crux (upper finger crack) really tough to lead through. It takes pro well, but stopping to place it saps all your strength. The crack is rounded over and off-finger so it's hard to get good finger locks.
Strenuous for sure!
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Mar 2, 2015

I remember doing this about 1996, at a time when I boasted, "I can onsight any 5.10 finger crack." Shortly thereafter I retreated from FTA and let my friend KC Baum finish if for me. I barely followed on TR. Embarrassed. Then assumed it was the altitude. Then realized that I lived at pretty much the same altitude. Then realized it was pure hubris. Never said anything like that again. Great route. Get on it. Speak softly.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!