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Farewell to Arms 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Karl Hammer, John Hoffman, 1976.
Page Views: 2,267
Submitted By: Blitzo on Nov 11, 2006
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Description 

This is the pumper crack on the left of the East Face. It leans slightly left.


Protection 

Pro to 3"



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By 426
Mar 8, 2007

Don't miss this if you like steep hand cracks!

By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 24, 2008

Fitting name. It definitely gets pumpy towards the end!

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 8, 2009

Great description Blitzo. This climb is not to be missed!

By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Jul 4, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I found the crux (upper finger crack) really tough to lead through. It takes pro well, but stopping to place it saps all your strength. The crack is slightly rounded over so is a bit tough to lay back, and the crack is off-finger for me, so is hard to get good finger locks. Quite a few hangs.

In a more recent attempt, I still had one hang, but I found some better feet placement. I'll get it next time!

The lower section a bit tricky too, I feel off-balance through it, and the pro, while adequate, isn't stellar.