Farewell to Arms
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Farewell To Arms
An exciting route.
Start at the same place as Bird Cage, at a huge left-facing corner.
P1: Climb 15' up the corner and traverse left. Although not the hardest part of the pitch, this is definitely challenging to lead. After traversing about 15', climb corners up to an overhang. Pass this on the left to a ledge and a rap anchor. This anchor is often used to TR the hard routes to the left. 5.8, 90'.
Although short, there is a lot of climbing on this pitch. The protection is good.
Standard Gunks rack
|Comments on Farewell to Arms
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 18, 2010
This climb has a lot of variety in one pretty short pitch. It starts off with a fun corner, to a spicy traverse (well protected) and then moves into an organge corner/dihedral. The moves in the dihedral are technical and fun and then it's a jug haul out of the corner and up to the chains. Lots of fun.
Apr 11, 2013
Sustained and exciting, lots of moves around 7 and 8 which are not like typical Gunks face moves (and nothing like indoor moves). The traverse seemed to actually go downwards a bit from right to left. The first move into the traverse is pretty exciting (and you might get banged up if you fall there), but perhaps not fully 8 in difficulty once you work it out carefully.
The key is not to freak out in the sustained corner section above after the traverse. There are lots of moves requiring thought -- and the pro is not necessarily easy to place. It's not a climb to be trying if you're in a hurry, and it helps to have lots of previous experience with a variety of Gunks rock situations.
Apr 17, 2013
Incredible variety on such a short pitch. You can protect the first scary move by placing a piece high in the inside corner and extending with a long sling.
Once you grab the horizontal beneath the roof it's all easy jugs but don't forget to protect the second as you move out left.
3 days ago
This route is probably pg13 now that the piton in the traverse is gone. If you fall you're going to swing into the corner pretty hard. If your second falls, they will also swing. So it's not a good route for beginning followers. It might be protectable with a purple or black c3 or black or blue alien, though I didn't have them on me when last I led it.