Farewell to Arms 

The hardest .10a I've ever climbed, but this little route is wonderful. The rating has got to be a sandbag.

went here for the first time yesterday. delicious. since my footwork wasn't great, I ended up pulling myself through a lot of moves and strained my right bicep. be careful!

• *climbers before me left a yellow daisy chain. if that's you, go back there & you'll see it hanging from the fencepost next to the outhouse.

such a wonderful climb for a LITERAL backyard crag - bummer its not bolted. VERY sandbagged for .10a though

All you need to setup on this is 4 locking beeners and a single 2-3 foot sling and you can connect to the two anchor bolts up top. I think 10a is fair. The first half is maybe a 5.9 if you go the left along the crack (or go straight up the face and its a 10a the whole way. The last part going into and coming out of the little "cave" above the ledge can be a bit of a challenge, a 5.10a+. I've climbed here a number of times, I don't think the girls have never made it passed the first half (even when heading to the left). I've made it all the way up a few times, but if its the end of the day the second half, into and out of the cave, is tough for me.

There are 3 bolts now, whoever placed them could have placed one more bolt and done a little bit better on the placement. There are 3 glue-ins and the first hanger on the 11b is highly recommended as a first, even then don't fall between the 1st and 2nd bolt, hanger and glue-in, it will not be pleasant. As far as grade, sandbagged is safe to say. 5.9 maybe 5.10a to the cave, but getting past the cave maybe 5.10a+ but topping out is definitely not 5.10a, more like 5.10b or perhaps 5.10c.

Jim Thornberg recently decided that he should bolt this, very unnecessary. The locations of the bolts are poor and its likely that a fall would result in injury. It's long been a toprope, I have no idea why this was bolted and I imagine that they will soon be removed..