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North Face
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Balaam S 
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Better than Watching TV (previously submitted as Fantastic Voyage) S 
Clean-Up on Aisle 9 S 
Crystal Method T 
Down on the Pharm S 
Dr. Food S 
Fantastic Planet S 
Farenheit 5.11 S 
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Unknown/(Bolt Dependence?) S 

Farenheit 5.11 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 2,167
Submitted By: Jimn Seiler on Jun 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

I really enjoyed the first pitch of this climb. It goes 5.10c and has a great crux move about 50 feet off the ground. It is very pumpy (as all the climbs here seem to be) and a really respectable length. The second pitch goes 5.12a/b? This route is also bolted very well.

Location 

This route is the bolted route just to the left of Fantastic Planet.

Protection 

Quickdraws.


Comments on Farenheit 5.11 Add Comment
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By Dylan Kuhn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 2, 2007

There's a route to the left that looks like it could be new.
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Sep 22, 2008

First pitch felt like 5.10a/b and was fun.
By Duncan P Ryan
Jul 19, 2009

Spent a bit of time trying to figure out the crux. Given the nubs and small features we found, we were confused at the 12- rating on the second pitch. Seemed more difficult. Has a hold broken or something changed on this route?
By JamesPjohnston
Jan 15, 2012

Yes, I agree do you go straight over the bolt line or follow the underclings straight through looks possible but in the hard 12s. Just wandering.
By Aaron Ramras
Sep 30, 2014

I'm curious about the original style in which the crux was done on this route? I tried to go straight up the bolt line a couple times and ended up downclimbing each time. Instead I opted to do a very technical rightward traverse on underclings to a jug (powerful 5.12a-ish) before traversing back left to the upper bolt. I tried to follow straight up the bolt line on top-rope after lowering off the top and found it to be heinously sharp. The rightward undercling traverse has a cool sequence and is still plenty challenging for those looking to avoid the heinous crimps.
By derek peavey
Sep 30, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This is the beta I used on the F.A. 10 yrs ago: the climb goes straight up the bolt line. Starting matched in the underclings, and bump your left hand to a hold with a thumb-crimp, sidepull thing. Kind of like you're holding a lighter but smaller. Then bump your right hand to a brick pinch just above the underclings. Get your hips up a little and bump your left hand to a good half finger in-cut crimp. Tall people probably could bump straight to this hold from the underclings. Then get your right foot on a sharp crystal point cluster thing. Then bump your right hand to a sharp crimp then bump your right again to a better crimp and then power up to the softball jug with your left and its 5.8 to the top.
Hopefully this helps. It been along time since I've done the route. The crux is probably around V5/6.