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 ADVANCED
The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Curse of Madame C S 
Death to the right T 
Far S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Gorilla Finishing School S 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Left Behind T 
Lichen It T 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpion's Chair S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Far 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 485
Submitted By: Floyd Hayes on Oct 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Floyd Hayes leading Far 5.8 using cams in pockets ...

Description 

Two closely spaced bolts protect a short face, followed by easy although a bit dirty and runout climbing to the chains or more challenging but runout (unless cams are used) face climbing to the right.

Protection 

Two quickdraws for two bolts or a few small to medium cams if you wish to lead the more challenging right side of the face above the two bolts.


Comments on Far Add Comment
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By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Jun 8, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Does anyone have history on this route? It seems to have changed at some point. From what I can tell the route originally had five lead bolts up a nice face, with anchors at the top of the cliff. Somebody chopped the upper anchor and bolts and added a different (funky) anchor out left, which eliminates the best climbing. Makes no sense, except that the route had become overgrown. I moved the anchor back to the top of the cliff and once I know more will probably restore this nice route to its original 5 bolt state.
By Floyd Hayes
Aug 30, 2010

I know nothing of its history, but I led it twice and don't recall the climbing being very good on the upper part of the route.
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Feb 9, 2011

I was the one who rebolted this route back in 2000. I think Dodrill may have this confused with another route. There is no way that this short piece of rock could have had five bolts! I remember reusing a hole or two at the anchor location, it was probably originally a TR or very sporty trad lead. Sorry for the old school anchor system, I was fresh out of college and had a bigger imagination than wallet at the time. Props to anyone who has kept up with the maintenance.

Eric Sorenson
By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Feb 15, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thanks for the info Eric, and for helping with the upkeep. I haven't been back to work on this since posting last year. The route in question has two bolts down low, one is a 1/2" stainless stud bolt, the other is 3/8 non stainless (iirc), then an easy runout, and the anchor was out left, two homemade ring hangers above a ledge. To the right, there are indeed no less than three empty holes on the pocketed face which continues up (and a tree had severely overgrown), and two empty holes on the top of the cliff. I pruned the tree, moved the anchor to the top, and left one hanger at the old anchor, protecting a traverse to the top until this gets sorted out.

The ring anchors I removed matched those that were found and replaced above "Farther," the route off to the left and downhill. I understand that these are probably not the FA names and I'm not sure who did the FAs. Perhaps I'm indeed confusing them. Regardless, my inclination is to install bolts in the empty holes on Far if they were original, which would make for the longest, highest quality climbing experience, and a safe lead. Input appreciated....

Cheers,
Jerry
By Floyd Hayes
Apr 19, 2011

Jerry is right, the quality of climbing is much better on the right side of the face now that the vegetation overgrowing it has been chopped. I managed to lead it by placing three cams in pockets above the two bolts, but since many (most?) climbers on Mt. St. Helena aren't into trad climbing it would be good if new bolts were placed. I didn't notice any old bolt holes, but wasn't aware Jerry had found them and wasn't looking for them. I have changed my quality rating from 1 to 2 stars.
By Floyd Hayes
Mar 11, 2013

Following Jim Thornburg's "Bay Area Rock," I've changed the name from "Far" to "Let's Get Naked." I wonder where that name came from? Nobody is attributed with the first ascent in his book. Also, I think he has mislabeled its position in the photograph. It should be route number 16 (I don't think route number 17 exists).
By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Jun 13, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

You are right Floyd. The name and topo in the Bay Area Rock book is incorrect by my knowledge..
By Floyd Hayes
Sep 9, 2013

Okay, I've changed the name back to Far.