By Dodrill From: Sebastopol, CA Jun 8, 2010 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Does anyone have history on this route? It seems to have changed at some point. From what I can tell the route originally had five lead bolts up a nice face, with anchors at the top of the cliff. Somebody chopped the upper anchor and bolts and added a different (funky) anchor out left, which eliminates the best climbing. Makes no sense, except that the route had become overgrown. I moved the anchor back to the top of the cliff and once I know more will probably restore this nice route to its original 5 bolt state.
I was the one who rebolted this route back in 2000. I think Dodrill may have this confused with another route. There is no way that this short piece of rock could have had five bolts! I remember reusing a hole or two at the anchor location, it was probably originally a TR or very sporty trad lead. Sorry for the old school anchor system, I was fresh out of college and had a bigger imagination than wallet at the time. Props to anyone who has kept up with the maintenance.
By Dodrill From: Sebastopol, CA Feb 15, 2011 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Thanks for the info Eric, and for helping with the upkeep. I haven't been back to work on this since posting last year. The route in question has two bolts down low, one is a 1/2" stainless stud bolt, the other is 3/8 non stainless (iirc), then an easy runout, and the anchor was out left, two homemade ring hangers above a ledge. To the right, there are indeed no less than three empty holes on the pocketed face which continues up (and a tree had severely overgrown), and two empty holes on the top of the cliff. I pruned the tree, moved the anchor to the top, and left one hanger at the old anchor, protecting a traverse to the top until this gets sorted out.
The ring anchors I removed matched those that were found and replaced above "Farther," the route off to the left and downhill. I understand that these are probably not the FA names and I'm not sure who did the FAs. Perhaps I'm indeed confusing them. Regardless, my inclination is to install bolts in the empty holes on Far if they were original, which would make for the longest, highest quality climbing experience, and a safe lead. Input appreciated....
Jerry is right, the quality of climbing is much better on the right side of the face now that the vegetation overgrowing it has been chopped. I managed to lead it by placing three cams in pockets above the two bolts, but since many (most?) climbers on Mt. St. Helena aren't into trad climbing it would be good if new bolts were placed. I didn't notice any old bolt holes, but wasn't aware Jerry had found them and wasn't looking for them. I have changed my quality rating from 1 to 2 stars.
Following Jim Thornburg's "Bay Area Rock," I've changed the name from "Far" to "Let's Get Naked." I wonder where that name came from? Nobody is attributed with the first ascent in his book. Also, I think he has mislabeled its position in the photograph. It should be route number 16 (I don't think route number 17 exists).
By Dodrill From: Sebastopol, CA Jun 13, 2013 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
You are right Floyd. The name and topo in the Bay Area Rock book is incorrect by my knowledge..