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This seldom-visited little 'dome' hosts a few easy, short trad routes (none of the routes are longer than probably 70 feet, if that). Although it is included in the old-school online guide, none of the current guide books even mention this crag (maybe for good reason; it may not be worth the walk over there, unless you have a strong urge to get far, far from the maddening crowd).
The four routes that are listed in the online guide are (from left to right):
Short N' Sweet (5.7): A short low angle face leads to a blocky finish. Didn't look too interesting.
Left or Right (5.8): Fun mix of crack and face.
Look Mom, No Friends (5.7): A sweet fist crack, but sadly too short.
Look Mom, Friends (5.8): We weren't able to confidently identify this climb. At the north end of the east wall, there's a couple of possible crack or face climbs. Where a dilapitated wooden fence leans against the wall, there's a fallen tree just a little farther north. Left of the fallen tree, there's a couple of jugs that may be this route, but looked too short to be a real climb (anyone know about this one?).
From the Sundeck Wall/Aspen Alley area, head due west across the slickrock for about 400 meters.
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Far Rock
Gollum 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c NM
: Taos Area
: ... : Far Rock
Off-width, several feet to right of Look Mom, Friends. Work your left shoulder into crack, work up, inside and outside of crack until you get near the top, then turn left and use good hands on left wall to exit to easy rock. Sorry, it's about a 1/2 star rating....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By Chris Wenker|
From: Santa Fe
Apr 1, 2009
It looks like one of the admins chopped my description here. May I ask why?
|By Fritz Devendorf|
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Jun 20, 2012
Could this be "Look Mom, Friends". We top roped it and I thought it was great, harder than 5.8.
| || I call this Duck-tail Elvis. Hang on to his collar moving up over his ear and then eventually to the front of his duck-tail hare dew. |