Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron)
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BETA PHOTO: 2nd Apron, Far Right Dihedral, 5.5 M3, 750ft.
This route is a good long moderate mixed climb for the area, and if it was in RMNP, it would be a classic scrappy mixed climb. The nature of the route varies with conditions. The best season is late May or the first few days of June, the fall can also be good. In the spring, the corners and dihedrals become runnels of ice and snice.
P1. 5.5 M2, 200 feet. Good belay ledges abound.
P2. 5.5 M3, 200 feet.
P3. 5.5 M3, 200 feet. This pitch can be cruiser in good snow conditions or a few scrappy moves at the top. Belay on big terrace.
P4. 5th Class M1. Move climber's left on the big terrace, and climb out through the path of least resistance.
Descent - the couloir between the 2nd and 3rd Apron can be descended with a short rappel at the top and steep snow downclimbing. Or walk down one of the main trails on the ridge.
SR up to BD#3 to 4, a knifeblade pin, and maybe a stubby screw.
BETA PHOTO: Visual on 6/7/14.
By Jonathan Stickel
From: Golden, CO
Jun 7, 2014
This route was OK. If partly melted out, expect a lot of dry rock on the first two pitches. You might even want to bring rock shoes.