Far from the Madding Crowd 5.8
| 719 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Roy Kligfield and Ivan Rezucha, 1975 |
| Submitted By: | John Peterson on Apr 15, 2007 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: The first climber is on akidlleativytoowouldn'tyou...
Add Photo  Printer View
A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears.
For more information please view www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description This route begins on a blackish face below a small tree and a flat block that is being held up by the tree.
Climb the face up left of the tree and block, then up the face to the small roof. Climb through the roof at a small weakness in the middle and continue up to the belay/rap tree.
The gear for this route is PG13/R, depending on how creative you are. Excellent face climbing and easily set up as a TR after leading Punch and Judy or Akid.
Location This is an obvious line on the left side of the clean slab at the far end of the Nears. Just right of Punch and Judy.
Protection Standard Gunks rack + red ballnutz.
| Comments on Far from the Madding Crowd |
|
By Spiro
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.8+
| Bring lots of small cams you and can double up and make it less scary. Good moves on the climb. |
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Oct 2, 2010
rating: 5.8 PG13
| The climbing itself is fairly easy on the 5.8 side. I don't feel it's PG13, particularly entering the crux which is the corner and face. C3 helps, but not that much. |
By Kevin Heckeler
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Apr 9, 2012
| I led Punch... (5.5) and we TR'd this. Fun route with a couple thin moves. Definitely within the 5.8 grade. Stay slightly right under the roof to gain a good hand, then pull the roof on the left. If you cheat too far left coming up the face you're missing out on the best moves on the climb IMO. |
By Wormly81
May 13, 2013
| The new guidebook recommends gear including red and gold ballnuts. The party next to us just so happened to have a red ballnut, which is very necessary to keep the climb PG. I was unable to find other good gear where the red ballnut went. I did not bring the gold and was able to fiddle in an ok purple c3. Another great route on this wall. |
|
RSS Feed
2 more...
