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d. Harvest Moon to the End
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Across From the Fruitstand 
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Far from the Madding Crowd 
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Hang Ten 
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Hold the Mayo 
I'm OK, You're OK  
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Lean and Mean 
Like a Box of Chocolates 
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Main Line 
Near Side of Far, The 
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Positively 4th Street 
Punch and Judy 
R2-OK? 
Roman's Climb Next to Keystone Kop 
Seniors in Motion 
Shadow Nose, The 
Short and Sassy 
Spinal Exam 
Spinal Traction 
Swells Good 
Up in Arms 
Void Where Inhibited 
Void Where Prohibited 
Whatever 

Far from the Madding Crowd 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Roy Kligfield and Ivan Rezucha, 1975
Page Views: 839
Submitted By: John Peterson on Apr 15, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: The first climber is on akidlleativytoowouldn'tyou...
A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route begins on a blackish face below a small tree and a flat block that is being held up by the tree.

Climb the face up left of the tree and block, then up the face to the small roof. Climb through the roof at a small weakness in the middle and continue up to the belay/rap tree.

The gear for this route is PG13/R, depending on how creative you are. Excellent face climbing and easily set up as a TR after leading Punch and Judy or Akid.


Location 

This is an obvious line on the left side of the clean slab at the far end of the Nears. Just right of Punch and Judy.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack + red ballnutz.



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By Spiro
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Bring lots of small cams you and can double up and make it less scary. Good moves on the climb.

By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Oct 2, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

The climbing itself is fairly easy on the 5.8 side. I don't feel it's PG13, particularly entering the crux which is the corner and face. C3 helps, but not that much.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 9, 2012

I led Punch... (5.5) and we TR'd this. Fun route with a couple thin moves. Definitely within the 5.8 grade. Stay slightly right under the roof to gain a good hand, then pull the roof on the left. If you cheat too far left coming up the face you're missing out on the best moves on the climb IMO.

By Jeffrey Dunn
Administrator
May 13, 2013

The new guidebook recommends gear including red and gold ballnuts. The party next to us just so happened to have a red ballnut, which is very necessary to keep the climb PG. I was unable to find other good gear where the red ballnut went. I did not bring the gold and was able to fiddle in an ok purple c3. Another great route on this wall.