Far From Feral 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Keith Becansoll 2011 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Apr 5, 2012 |
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Jenny after pulling the crux roof with Chris belay...
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Description One of the new heavily cleaned routes on the right side of A+d wall. This one is reported to still be a bit dusty but getting better with traffic, cleaning and weather. Climb a tough roof to gain easier climbing to the anchor. An easier variation is to be added to the right making a nice moderate climb.
Location Start at the big block that sits in the middle of the trail between A+D and Ali Babbler. Climb out the crux roof to an easier finish.
Protection Bolts to anchor.
| Comments on Far From Feral |
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By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Apr 5, 2012
| Ah... I have been wondering about these! Looks like fun! |
By keith b Apr 5, 2012
| Hey Lee, Thanks for posting the information. Fa's were 2011. This one is called Far From Feral, (not form). kb |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Apr 6, 2012
| oops sorry for the typos... i fixed it up... |
By Ming Jun 21, 2012 rating: 5.10a
| Fun roof pull - feels 10A when the draws are hung. Cool roof pull that feels easier than the 2nd crux of Armed & Dangerous - the hand is better than it looks when laid back and the feet is pretty solid if you spot it in advance. It was a bit reachy for short people like me (I have a reach of a 5.2 person) to hang the crux draw. We did this + M. Falcon linkup but getting to the belay bolt at Millennium Falcon was really dirty at this point - but it seems like a logical 1st pitch to it. |
By Gunks From: Gunks, NY Aug 9, 2012
| There is a bolt line on climber's left of Far from Ferel. Anyone has any info on this climb? |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Aug 9, 2012
| In between Feral and Toxic Gumbo? |
By Gunks From: Gunks, NY Aug 10, 2012
| The bolt line is just to the left of Far from Feral. If you look at the picture of FFF the new route starts on the slab about 7-10 feet to the left of FFF and goes through the widest part of the roof. |
By iBolt Aug 10, 2012
| Hard to tell from the photo; but, it may be another Becansoll classic, "Arugula, Arugula...." A little background: "Arugula" is a vegetable frequently used as a salad green and is popular in Italian cuisine. It's also known as "rocket" or "rucola," depending how pretentious the restaurant serving the salad is... I believe argula is related to sativa and may be slightly hallucinogenic. As for the grade; it felt easier than "Far from Feral" but harder than "Milktoast Falcon." It's an independent line (it doesn't squeeze any pre-existing routes), the falls are safe (there's no trees to hit) and it's clean (the holds don't fall off when you grab them...) Hope this helps! iBolt |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Aug 10, 2012
| "I believe arugula is related to sativa and may be slightly hallucinogenic" Wishful thinking. Sativa merely is the adjectival part of the name meaning cultivated. Arugula is in the order of Brassicaceae, while Cannabis is in the order of Rosales. You would have to go back to the clade Eudicot to have them in the same group.. You should know that IBolt. |
By iBolt Aug 10, 2012
| Mark, you caught me: I was just having a little "fun with botany." The "Latin name" of Arugula is Eruca sativa. If i remember correctly, "Eruca" is from Latin meaning some sort of cabbage and "sativa" means something like "cultivated" or "grown." And perhaps, I was having mild hallucinations. (I will say that many of the other responses in these Rumney forums have seemed a little "hallucinogenic" lately...) Years ago, I had an after-dinner liquor made by an older Italian gentleman that was made with arugula. It was like "lemoncello" but with a pepper taste instead of lemon... He served it ice cold. I believe almost everything else I wrote is basically true.... iBolt |
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Sep 24, 2012 rating: 5.10b
| Short video of the crux.
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By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Sep 26, 2012 rating: 5.10b
| I am going to make one suggestion, and maybe it's bad, but: I think there should be one more bolt between bolts 3 and 4. I had to clip bolt 4 from the crux hold, and had I fallen from there I would have hit the slab below pretty hard. In the video I posted I can clip the rope if the draw is already there, but I am also 6 feet tall with a positive ape index. I would suggest, in the interest of safety, another bolt a foot or 2 below bolt #4. |
By S. Neoh Oct 27, 2012 rating: 5.10a/b
| Finally did the route shown in the photo that Ming took and posted. Yeah, getting the draw into bolt#4 (on the initial steep head wall) requires a good stretch. I did the route a body length or less to the left of this route a few months ago. I thought it is quite enjoyable and maybe 1 letter grade easier than this one. |
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Mar 17, 2013 rating: 5.9+
| Very fun route, and a fine addition to the Armed and Dangerous area. Helps spread out the hoards a bit! I thought the crux was fairly short, and not as hard as "Armed and Dangerous". Felt more in line with the 9+ at Bonsai. |
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