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 ADVANCED
The Babylon Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
PFM. Pure f $%^& * magic.  T 
All American Arete S 
All American Hand Crack T 
Babylon T 
Box Tops T 
Corner left of All American Hand Crack T 
Far East T 
Left for Dead T,TR 
Proof of Purchase T,S 

Far East 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Jun 1, 2012

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Description 

A left facing hand crack formed from a slightly separated block marks the lower half of the route. Beginning with a wide hands roof with great feet, curve around the roof up the hand crack until gaining the top of the block. From here a bit of unprotected face climbing leads to protection and broken cracks to the anchors.

Location 

On the South face of the formation, the start is just under the golden face of a very large block.

Protection 

Medium cams from .5" to 3", with perhaps a finger piece thrown in to protect after the unprotected face portion. Two bolt anchor, no chains or rap rings. I walked off into the gulley towards climber's left.


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By Patrick Mulligan
Jun 15, 2012

Really easy for 5.9, especially considering that AAHC is 10a. Added rings to bolts.

A year later and those rings (3/8" links and heavy duty rappel rings) were taken and replaced by 1/4" plated home depot junk. We rapped from them, but they suck.
By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
Aug 15, 2014

Unfortunately, the rap situation is still at Patrick explains it... Wished I had hardware on me to fix it up... Next time. We descended into the gully that houses All American Hand Crack, which is a bit dicey in one spot, but totally doable. Once down you'll be staring right at AAHC, which we immediately hopped on.