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Fantasy Area
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Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Mowed out mama T 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

Fantasy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tim Mein and Rich Pleiss, 1984
Page Views: 11,950
Submitted By: Chris Hillios on May 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (116)
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Hutch begins jamming up Fantasy Crack.

Description 

The obvious hand crack that heads straight up the Fantasy roof area.

15 feet of semi-awkward face and crack climbing leads to a nice long splitter with bomber jams, great rest stances and good holds both in and out of the crack.

A second pitch, if you want to top out (usually dirty from runoff) moves up and right from the comfy ledge below the bolted anchor and goes at roughly 5.5.

Location 

Quickest way in is to park at the Nuttall lot. Take the trail in and where it forks for the Cirque ladder, go right (downstream) and follow the rim until you reach the clearing with a very distinct tree (there is a picture in the guidebook) where you'll find a pair of rings to rappel in. You'll find yourself staring at the route on your way down. 1 60m barely makes it with stretch.

If you're not into rapping in, take the Cirque ladder in and head downstream until you reach it. This adds about ten minutes or so to the approach.

Protection 

Takes everything from .5 to 4. You may want multiples in the 1 and 2 sizes. Hexes work good in this too. Bolted anchor at the top of the "first pitch".


Photos of Fantasy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom part of Fantasy
Bottom part of Fantasy
Rock Climbing Photo: The amazing Fantasy
The amazing Fantasy
Rock Climbing Photo: Start.
Start.
Rock Climbing Photo: This great climb, as I recall, keeps your attentio...
This great climb, as I recall, keeps your attentio...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at Fantasy from the base
BETA PHOTO: Looking at Fantasy from the base

Comments on Fantasy Add Comment
Show which comments
By JoshL
Dec 15, 2015

As of 12/12/2015, there is a fixed cam right after the first few moves off the deck.
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Dec 15, 2015

Let me guess... a green or purple Camalot in the finger sized crack in the corner below the roof...
By JoshL
Jan 13, 2016

Nah, I believe it was a yellow camalot right at/above the little roof.
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Jan 18, 2016

It'll most likely be gone by spring. All it takes is someone that knows how to clean- or if it's buried, someone that knows how to use a couple extended nut tools. I dug a green Camalot out of this thing like that a while ago.
By Kyle Hartung
Jun 30, 2016

Climbed this April 2016 - did not see any stuck cams. This route is fun and straight forward - climb up the crack. I thought the crux was actually the first few moves. What do I know...

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