Fantasy 

Beautiful handcrack. Highly recommended for those looking to practice jams in a perfect, relatively low angle splitter crack. Crux is probably the first 15 feet over the block.

Yes, there are chains about 70 feet up; rap off a 60 meter rope, or run to the top of the cliff up some 5.10 moves.

Double ropes are not needed and would provide little benefit over a single line (other than peace of mind).

Chain anchors now?...that's nice. Years ago, I remember rapping off an old fixed hex and something else (I forget)...kinda scary.

Thanks to Kris Gorny for the FA info on this route.

I have updated the description to add the chain anchors. (agreed, this was not there when I did it.)

-Chris

Four stars for the grade. Very good jamming up the crack.

1st pitch is super cool. If you top out the way the first ascentionists did, you'll feel like the first ascentionist. It seems nobody goes this way and I can't say I blame them. The awesome part of this route is the first pitch. The second pitch sucks. It's about 5.5 with a finger crack dihedral to top out and lots of dirt, lichen, and moss to contend with, but there's a good tree to belay your second from if you choose to do this.

Absolute, pure fun.