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Minotaur Wall
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Divine Wind TR 
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Minotaur T 

Fantasy of Light 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon & Alan Bartlett, March 1988
Page Views: 810
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 2, 2005

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Enjoying the lack of crowds on Fantasy of Light (5...

Description 

Start off a boulder from the right or directly (harder) and make bouldery moves (crux) into the start of a nicely featured crack system. Once past the start the route is no harder than 5.7 or so in difficulty.

Downclimb to climber's left and take care, because while easy it's somewhat exposed. Perhaps best to lower or rap off for less-experienced and/or timid climbers.

One star out of five (maybe).

Location 

Right of center on the Minotaur Wall (which sits in front of the Atlantis Wall), between Minotaur on the left and Nittany Lion on the right.

Protection 

Gear to 3"


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By Adam Kimmerly
May 1, 2006
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I found the start of this route to be significantly harder than 5.10a. Maybe a foothold has broken, or maybe you're supposed to use a cheat stone. I don't know. But the 5.10b to the right "Nittany Lion" felt significantly easier, putting the start of this route at 5.10c/d. Fun moves though. "Nittany Lion" is good too, and a bit more sustained. Both are worthwhile ticks if you're in the area.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Feb 10, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I'm not sure the TDS can really rate a climb like this well. It's a one move boulder problem (V1-?) on flat ground to 5.7-ish climbing. I guess I can see how someone might call it .10b/c if you do several face moves on the little crimps at the start. But using the huge undercling and a high foot in the pod will allow you to pull up to the big holds in 1 move. Powerful, but easy, not .10c/d by any means. 5.7+? Sounds good.
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Agree that 10c/d might be a little generous, but have to disagree with rating the route 5.7+. I found this route to be a one move wonder as everyone else says. Fun stuff.
By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Apr 15, 2011

I dont know how long ago the bolts on top of this were cut but they were not there today forcing us to downclimb to the left. Good climb though I do agree with everyone that all the work is on the bottom.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 5, 2012

Pretty easy hard moves at the bottom. Yes, I know what I just wrote. The only deal I saw with this climb is the pro all through the middle was in crappy rock. It's a bit of fun, nonetheless.