Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Fantasy Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

Fantasy Area 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.05563, -81.0557 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,145
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: chad umbel on May 31, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chad enjoying the day with his friends on Mr. Fant...

Description 

The Fantasy Area is home to some of the most classic lines at Endless Wall including must do routes like Aesthetica, Erotica, Black & Tan, Black Happy, The Stick, And the beutiful splitter crack Fantasy. It starts getting shade around 1 to 2 pm. The rock here is of the finest quality at the Gorge, with many beutiful orange and black streaks reminiscent of same kind in Austrailia's Mount Arapiles. Enjoy!


Getting There 

You can hike up river from the Honey Mooners' Ladder or just rap in from a station off the trail above Endless. This station is below an obvious overlook of the river. It is not marked by a sign, and requires a full 60 meter rope. Be careful and make sure your ropes reach the ground.


Climbing Season


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fantasy Area:
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Two-Step Arete   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Doce Doe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 100'   
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
New Fangled Dangle   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 90'   
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Mr. Fantasy   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 50'   
The Stick   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Erotica   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   
Blackhappy   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Fantasy Area

Featured Route For Fantasy Area
Aesthetica

Aesthetica 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Fantasy Area
This route is outstanding! If you do 5.11c, do this route! Start by climbing straight up on vertical rock to reach a bulge. From here, diagonal up and right following very chalked holds aiming for a 1 ft wide ledge about 20 ft up from the bulge. This section is the crux. From this ledge continue up and right for a few moves and then it begins to diagonal up and left toward the shuts. Although the crux is over once you reach the ledge, there's still a move that will get your attention with t...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Comments on Fantasy Area Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -