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 ADVANCED
Fantasy Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

Fantasy Area  


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Location: 38.05563, -81.0557 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,597
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: chad umbel on May 31, 2007
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Chad enjoying the day with his friends on Mr. Fant...

Description 

The Fantasy Area is home to some of the most classic lines at Endless Wall including must do routes like Aesthetica, Erotica, Black & Tan, Black Happy, The Stick, And the beutiful splitter crack Fantasy. It starts getting shade around 1 to 2 pm. The rock here is of the finest quality at the Gorge, with many beutiful orange and black streaks reminiscent of same kind in Austrailia's Mount Arapiles. Enjoy!

Getting There 

You can hike up river from the Honey Mooners' Ladder or just rap in from a station off the trail above Endless. This station is below an obvious overlook of the river. It is not marked by a sign, and requires a full 60 meter rope. Be careful and make sure your ropes reach the ground.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fantasy Area:
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Two-Step Arete   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Doce Doe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 100'   
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
New Fangled Dangle   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 90'   
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Mr. Fantasy   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 50'   
The Stick   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Erotica   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   
Blackhappy   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Fantasy Area

Featured Route For Fantasy Area
Hutch begins jamming up Fantasy Crack.

Fantasy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Fantasy Area
The obvious handcrack that heads strait up the Fantasy roof area.Head up hand crack to ledge just under roof to the chain anchors.Double rope setup would be nice on this route....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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