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 ADVANCED
Fantasy Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Mowed out mama T 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

Fantasy Area  


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Location: 38.05563, -81.0557 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,886
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: chad umbel on May 31, 2007
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Description 

The Fantasy Area is home to some of the most classic lines at Endless Wall including must do routes like Aesthetica, Erotica, Black & Tan, Black Happy, The Stick, And the beutiful splitter crack Fantasy. It starts getting shade around 1 to 2 pm. The rock here is of the finest quality at the Gorge, with many beutiful orange and black streaks reminiscent of same kind in Austrailia's Mount Arapiles. Enjoy!

Getting There 

You can hike up river from the Honey Mooners' Ladder or just rap in from a station off the trail above Endless. This station is below an obvious overlook of the river. It is not marked by a sign, and requires a full 60 meter rope. Be careful and make sure your ropes reach the ground.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fantasy Area:
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Two-Step Arete   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Doce Doe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
New Fangled Dangle   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 80'   
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mr. Fantasy   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 50'   
The Stick   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Fantasy Face   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Erotica   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   
Blackhappy   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Fantasy Area

Featured Route For Fantasy Area
Hutch begins jamming up Fantasy Crack.

Fantasy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Fantasy Area
The obvious hand crack that heads straight up the Fantasy roof area.15 feet of semi-awkward face and crack climbing leads to a nice long splitter with bomber jams, great rest stances and good holds both in and out of the crack.A second pitch, if you want to top out (usually dirty from runoff) moves up and right from the bolted anchor and goes at roughly 5.5....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Fantasy Area Slideshow Add Photo
a 60m will just touch the ground with stretch - kn...
a 60m will just touch the ground with stretch - kn...

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