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Stone Mountain South Face
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Unsorted Routes:

Fantastic 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 470'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gerald Laws, Buddy Price 1974
Season: Winter, Fall, Spring
Page Views: 1,514
Submitted By: GWB on Jun 20, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Having fun on Fantastic

Description 

The name of this route really says it all. A rare beautiful crack that offers some exciting moves over gear. Don't worry though, there is still enough runout slab climbing to prevent you from thinking you are any where else.

Start at the base of the left leaning crack. Climb the crack for about 30 feet then step right onto waves in the rock. Clip 2 bolts on your way out right, then make a step over a bulge and gain ground to the belay. 5.9+, 90'

P2 Start up and head left, locate a bolt and keep moving until you hit a terrace. 5.9 120'

P3 Head up to the second terrace. Can't remember if there is a bolt or not. 5.8 100'

From the belay, continue up for another 160' or so until you are able to reach the trees.


Location 

Scramble your way up and left from the base below the tree ledge. Up about 200 feet or so you'll find a few large flat boulders leaning against the rock allowing you to gain a crack.


Protection 

Start out with finger to slightly larger gear in the crack. You may be able to find some small gear that'll hold in the flakes before the step above the bulge. Then it is bolt(s) to the top.



Photos of Fantastic Slideshow Add Photo
Matt getting ready to pull over the bulge on Fantastic.
Matt getting ready to pull over the bulge on Fanta...
Fantastic, 5.9
Fantastic, 5.9
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By Jeff Dunbar
From: Carrboro, NC
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Climbed this awesome route yesterday. It was great fun.

Be advised that there are currently two pairs of bolts (one old/manky, and one new/shiny, in each spot) at the P1 and P2 anchors, and the P2 anchor is located way left, at the right end of a huge sloping ledge system that arcs across the top of an equally huge overhung amphitheater below/left of the P1 belay. Don't be fooled by the topo in the NC Select guide, which makes this pitch look shorter and more verical than it really is.

Many thanks to all who contributed to the rebolting of this and so many other great routes at Stone!

By Emil Briggs
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Beautiful climb. The first pitch is my favorite at Stone. Well protected nearly vertical crack and face at the bottom. Top gets a little spicy with a slab finish over gear in a flake that flexes enough to get your attention.