Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Upper Cliff
Select Route:
Bean Pole 
Bishop 
Bloody Fingers 
Chamonix 
Chimney, The 
Climber's Corner 
Desperate Depression 
Diagonal 
Double Chin 
Double Jam 
Fantastic Face 
Far Out Jam 
Far Out Jam Right 
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) 
Horn, The 
Kiddie's Korner 
Loose Flake Polka 
Max Factor 
Ms. Pac Man 
No Answer 
Obscene Phone Call 
PB & J 
Pee Pee The Sailor 
Roof, The 
Short Stuff 
Start, The 
Yellow Zonkers 

Fantastic Face 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,062
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

A hard, crimpy, face climb just right of the Double Chin (5.6) crack.... Climb up the blankish face staying right of the crack.... A few big moves between bad holds is the crux, coming at about 1/3 height....

This is a fun route, but the lack of decent protection in the crux sucks 'cause I want to lead it.... Maybe some day I'll find some small gear and headpoint it...But enough about me...Enjoy it....


Location 

5 feet right of Double Chin....


Protection 

Top Rope....



Comments on Fantastic Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 31, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Great route!

There is a little smallish gear under the underclings at the bottom, but there is none after that, so no one ever leads it due to the disasterous fall from the crux, or above.

By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Jun 17, 2007

FF has been led and I've even witnessed a ground fall from just below the hoizontals at the top when a leader got too nervous to commit to the top out... Ouch!

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jul 4, 2008

FF has been soloed too. To solo it is, one could argue, no more reckless than to lead it. It is a fantastic route. Other places in the world, a climb this good and hard would have bolts on it. Let's hear it for New England ethics.