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Wizard's Gate
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Magic  
Book of Spells 
Cloak and Dagger 
Crystal Staircase 
Dark Horse 
Dead End  
Gatekeeper, The 
Guillotine, The 
Magic Carpet Ride  
Magic Dagger 
Merlin's Magic Corner 
Riding with the Ravens 
Take Me to Your Leader 
Witchway Arete 
Wizard's Path 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Patrick Vernon, Scott Esser
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 504
Submitted By: PatrickV on Jul 5, 2010
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Once the climb is located, look for a good finger lock in the middle of an eight foot horizontal roof. Arrange protection,then make some strenuous moves to the lip. Although there are jugs at the lip, it is still a little awkward getting established on the face above, and is in definite ankle/tailbone/back breaking territory. Once established on the face above, wander up on less than ideal rock and large chicken heads with intermittent pro (5.8 PG-13) to a ledge with a tree. Rap.


Fantasia is located fifty feet to the left of Dark Horse. Locate a large, open-book, sculpted, v-slot dihedral with easy climbing and a tree sixty feet up. Fantasia, another thirty feet to the left of this dihedral, tackles the longest section of the low-lying roof left of the dihedral (crux) and wanders up chicken heads above the roof.


TCUs, small stoppers.

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By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Jul 26, 2010

Ohhhh, no you didn't! Proud work, fellas, we were far to sissy to wander into this neck of the woods - it's filthy! but very cool looking rock. Good effort!