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Fantasia 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Patrick Vernon, Scott Esser
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 502
Submitted By: PatrickV on Jul 5, 2010
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Description 

Once the climb is located, look for a good finger lock in the middle of an eight foot horizontal roof. Arrange protection,then make some strenuous moves to the lip. Although there are jugs at the lip, it is still a little awkward getting established on the face above, and is in definite ankle/tailbone/back breaking territory. Once established on the face above, wander up on less than ideal rock and large chicken heads with intermittent pro (5.8 PG-13) to a ledge with a tree. Rap.


Location 

Fantasia is located fifty feet to the left of Dark Horse. Locate a large, open-book, sculpted, v-slot dihedral with easy climbing and a tree sixty feet up. Fantasia, another thirty feet to the left of this dihedral, tackles the longest section of the low-lying roof left of the dihedral (crux) and wanders up chicken heads above the roof.


Protection 

TCUs, small stoppers.



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By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Jul 26, 2010

Ohhhh, no you didn't! Proud work, fellas, we were far to sissy to wander into this neck of the woods - it's filthy! but very cool looking rock. Good effort!