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Fantasy Island
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Fantasia 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jack Marshall Sam Owings
Page Views: 3,637
Submitted By: duh on Jan 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Fantasia

Description 

Fantasia starts just right of The Minute Men Arete, to the right and under a large boulder. Follow brown painted hangers up the right side of the slab. The route gets steeper with large jugs. The last 20' the holds get smaller on perfect brown rock. Crux near the top. Local classic!

Fantasia is probably 10d/11a but that rating wasn't available.

Protection 

10 bolts to a chain anchor. Slightly longer draws on the lower bolts will help the rope run smoothly when you are on the crux at the top.


Photos of Fantasia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay clipping on "Fantasia"
Jay clipping on "Fantasia"
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Fantasia with brown painted hangers to th...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Fantasia with brown painted hangers to th...
Rock Climbing Photo: kim about to arrive at anchors
kim about to arrive at anchors

Comments on Fantasia Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 3, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

An absolute classic! Don't let the progressively steeper moves lull you to a rude awakening as you face the suddenly vertical and somewhat sequential crimps. A highly recommended route for the grade.
By Keegan Dimmick
From: Winchester, VA
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Doesn't matter what the grade is, climb this route and make it your first 11A red point!
By Clif Clap
Jan 1, 2014

Fun route with lots of opportunities to rest and shake out, including some very large holds to stand on right below the crux and consider your beta.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 29, 2016

A well known route and following the positive reviews we figured it would be great to do while in the area. What we found was opening section to be low angle and slabby. Ho hum movement over stone with the most excitement being to not kick down little pieces of rock and shale from the various little shelves along the way. The upper section is vertical and thoughtful as you plan your course to the anchor. The last two (thoughtfully placed) bolts and gaining the anchor are for certain the crux.

Overall - the route is fun, long and absolutely worth doing. But to be considered a classic? Not hardly, there are much better area routes to be had.

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