Fantasia 5.9
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Rick Sanders just getting to the easier section in...
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Description On the Rat Brain next to Kim is a proud fatty. This has got to be one of the hardest 9s I've ever seen. Sustained with a tricky pod fairly low that is hard to get gear into(I wish Wild Country made a #7 Friend), but it is possible to toprope if you want practice suffering.
Protection Lots of fatties.
BETA PHOTO
| Margaret making her way up Fantasia, August, 2005
| Alexis Scott on Phantasia
| My husband, Mark, leading some of the easier parts...
| One of my first leads my first year in the Woo.
| Getting into the meat of the climb.
| Fantasia. August, 2010.
| Izak getting a hand/fist stack. How many 11 year ...
| Izak showing some professional wide crack techniqu...
| Stuck....
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By Robert Stetler Dec 11, 2001
| Totally agree on the #7!!!!! This is another one of those famous routes credited to my earlier stage of learning to climb. I watched my friend Kevin suffer and bleed on this with nothing bigger as far as cams than a #3.5 camalot and no big bros. I think we had a set of curved hexes. But once you're in the crack your in. there's no escape..... |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jul 7, 2002 rating: 5.9+
| In July of 2002 (7/5/02) this crack was pretty full of birdy doo. I wanted to climb it, but after having a good look, decided that it was not important to me. |
By Petro From: Golden, CO Sep 2, 2003
| Sweet offwidth. I'd recomend two #5 camalots unless you can get a #4.5 in at the beginning. |
By Michael Kullman Sep 2, 2003
| THRUTCH FEST. Eat your Wheaties before getting on this beast ;-) |
By L. Hamilton Jun 14, 2004 rating: 5.9+
| It's pretty and it's pure, with views out over the range. This was my favorite route at Vedauwoo back in passive tube-chock days. |
By Anonymous Coward Sep 22, 2004
| I think Mr. Bubb is thinking of Skull. This is a clean, crack with no bird doo.A classic moderate ow. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Sep 22, 2004 rating: 5.9+
| I did end up doing the route in 5/15/2004. The Anon poster is correct- it was clean of PooPoo at that time. I know wasn't thinking of Skull when I said that though, I think in 2002 there was poopoo. Skull is not on this section of rock & I checked it out independantly on another occasion. Skull was closed this summer by a handwritten "raptor" note at the base.In 2004, I found Fantasia was a decent route, strenuous, and unprotected down low without tubes/big-bros, due to it's very large size starting off. Pretty fun overall. |
By Danny Oct 3, 2005 rating: 5.9
| Great route! The crux at the beginning does protect with small cams in the horizontal crack, just bring some runners. This gives you pro at your waist for pulling into the crack. Be sure not to blow your big gear too early like me or you'll be faced with a big runout. |
By EMT May 16, 2008
| Great route. I got to follow Trever on this last weekend and thought it was one of the best offwidths I'd climbed. 4 #5s and a #4 seemed to be right for the gear. |
By taimi From: Longmont, CO Jun 1, 2008 rating: 5.9+
| When we went up it (5/30/08), there was a fair amount of dried blood on the rock, testifying to the Total Thrutchfest nature of the route. As so often the case at Vedauwoo, getting into the blasted crack was the crux for me--but I'm short, and that can make a difference. Once in the crack, it's a great offwidth, truly a lot of fun. I didn't lead it, so can't testify to gear.... |
By Tyler Smeenk From: Laramie, WY Jan 20, 2009 rating: 5.9+
| Just wanted to thank whoever left a BD #6 on this route a couple of years ago, I have enjoyed it immensely! |
By Dan G0D5H411 From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 5, 2011
| Probably one of the best fatties I have done at Vedauwoo! Just enough thin crimps in the crack and edging feet on the outside to make it a solid 5.9. A small piece protects the very beginning, after which you can throw in a #6 C4 to protect the initial thrash. I wish I had another #6 about halfway up...besides that, a #5, a bunch of #4's and even a #3 C4 came in handy. |
By Scott Coffin From: Laramie, WY Jul 26, 2012
| VERY fun climb! Sent this fat baby in the middle of a thunderstorm - the rain didn't affect the climb whatsoever. Classic 5.9 offwidth testpiece. |
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