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Fantasia 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Royal Robbins, Ken Wilson 1973
Page Views: 4,961
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on May 30, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Patrick Haley on pitch one of 'Fantasia'

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To find this climb, look for a very featured slab below a very prominent crescent arch crack that forms a roof. Begin climbing up a highly featured (dikes) face below the arch to the roof, about 50ft of unprotected 5.5

Pitch #1:

From the start of the route, head up over this roof, work up to another small roof traversing left a bit and then up through easy runnout face to the first bolted anchor, about 140 feet up.

Pitch #2:

This shorter pitch is probably the simplest and best protected pitch of the route. From the first belay station, continue up the face to a horizontal cracksystem that leads up and slightly right to the second bolted belay station.

Pitch #3:

This long pitch will get you to the top of the rock. Climb up and left to a mantle with poor to no protection, 5.9. Continue strait up on easier face to a short slabby area. Make some runnout slabby moves through a blank section and climb up into the roofs above. There are many ways to go up high with none much better than the other. Just go more or less strait up getting pro where you can.

Protection 

Cams, doubles to 2". Bring many long slings, you will need them on almost every placement.


Photos of Fantasia Slideshow Add Photo
The first pro is under that roof with the horizont...
The first pro is under that roof with the horizont...
There is great protection here
There is great protection here
Patrick Haley on 'Fantasia'
Patrick Haley on 'Fantasia'

Comments on Fantasia Add Comment
Show which comments
By 426
Mar 6, 2007

This climb used to be 5.8 in the old guide. Also, we used tied off knobs on the crux...

Fantastic route if you are into "the journey"...
By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Feb 6, 2009

I still think this route is 5.9. Take a couple of 1/2" webbing slings, esp for the Three Grey Knobs. They probably won't hold anything but they'll give you an ephemeral feeling that you're ok. I led all this route twice in the 80s and think it is the best route at the Leap, for aesthetics, boldness, and having to really commit yourself fully: all those great values of 60s/70s rock climbing. One of the great, great routes, but need to have serious cool head and experience or you'll get hurt.
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

I'll go with the 5.8 rating. It's more mental than hard.
By broppler
From: Oakland
Jun 7, 2011

Im with Bob. The very best route at the leap.
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jun 18, 2011

A great route for sure, but not the best by a long shot. The leap has so many obscure, less traveled, great lines it makes ones head spin.
By Ima Fred Knot
From: Victoria, Seychelles
Jun 21, 2011

Do tell, Salamanizer
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Jul 11, 2011

The route description on this page strikes me as next to useless, although maybe any would be. From the corner at the end of the 5.6R dike climb, you do a wild hand traverse to the left. After that, I'm not sure because I drifted too far to the left and wound up at the bolted belay for Fear No Evil (there's a bolt about 30 above). Did the second pitch of Fear, which was great. The last not so great, so I ended up escaping to the corner system to the left.
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 19, 2011

Michael: How can I improve this beta? I assume you're thinking my description of the first pitch is a little too vague, is this correct?
By Joe Huggins
From: Grand Junction
Feb 9, 2012

I did this,finally,about '95, with my wife.A lot of folks here may be unaware that Fantasia is the route that Royal Robbins writes about in the last chapter of Advanced Rockcraft.All the time on that first pitch,the memory of the terror he described in finessing that slab section was playing in my memory.Many years earlier,I did Roofer Madness with none other than John Rosholt.I think his main motive was because of the name,but for me, as a CO climber,that was a stellar route.
By verticalworldtraveler
From: Midvale, UT
Nov 16, 2013

Climbed this route 9/24/13. After doing most of the easier classics at the Leap, finally got around to this one and it didn't disappoint! As for Pitch 3, the piton shown above the belay is gone and this section appears quite unprotected. I climbed up and down it a bit, finally coming back to the belay and heading over to the right side 5.10a/b variation. For this there is an obvious rusty ring piton at 3 o clock from the belay, then head straight up on slab, passing a small roof to the next gear ~30 ft above the piton. Its all there, but very exciting. I will have to go back and send the original 5.8 lieback sans piton now that I have done this.