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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) 
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Zot Face, The 

Fanning the Flame 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
FA: Chris Weidner, solo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on May 14, 2003
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  • Description 

    "Fanning the Flame" is located on a small, steep cliff 80 feet downhill from the North Side of Lumpe Tower (see Rossiter's guide p.338). The logical approach to this cliff is to climb one of several three-star routes on Lumpe Tower, like "Swanson Arete", 5.5, or "The Ytrid Deed", 5.6, or on Tower One, like "The Yellow Spur", 5.9. If you still crave another pitch or two after one of these routes, this wall is worth a visit.

    Located 15 feet left of "Burning Desire" 10d, "Fanning the Flame" 5.8 is a gently overhanging, right-leaning crack that parallels an incipient crack a few feet to its left. The climbing is characterized by juggy face holds on good rock, a few crack moves and a tricky finish.


    Protection 

    Bring a single set of cams up to #2 Camalot, and small to medium nuts. There is a tree about 20 feet beyond where the route tops out, so have some long slings or webbing handy for the anchor.



    Comments on Fanning the Flame Add Comment
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    By Rich Kelly
    Apr 19, 2011

    Named "Fish Cake" in the Levin guide.