The Fanis group begins atop Falzarego Pass on the way in to Cortina d'Ampezzo and ends at the Forcella Bois. A notable summit is the Sass di Stria, or "Hexenstein." Literally, Witch's Rock; also included is the Cima Bois, a popular and easily accessible formation. The Fanis Tower or Fanis Turm appears attractive but is infrequently climbed due to friable and loose rock.
From Cortina d'Ampezzo, take the highway to Falzarego Pass.
20 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fanis Group:
Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad, 7 pitches, 450' Falzarego Towers
Spigolo Sud aka the South Rib 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 6 pitches, 660' Sass di Stria "Hexenstein."
Featured Route For Fanis Group
Torre Piccola, "via della Guide" 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Europe : Italy : ... : Falzarego Towers
The route consists of 9 wonderful leads of exposed climbing on excellent rock. Pitch 1 is quite easy and is fairly short, ending on a decent belay stance after about only 50 feet. Pitch 2 traverses left (exposed but easy climbing) to a short dihedral which terminates atop a flake (same belay as Comici Route). Pitch 3 climbs diagonally right, trending towards a chimney/gully system. Pitch 4 follows the gully/chimney and involves a bit of fun stemming. Pitch 5 is the crux, and may have a move or 2...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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