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DescriptionThe Fanis group begins atop Falzarego Pass on the way in to Cortina d'Ampezzo and ends at the Forcella Bois. A notable summit is the Sass di Stria, or "Hexenstein." Literally, Witch's Rock; also included is the Cima Bois, a popular and easily accessible formation. The Fanis Tower or Fanis Turm appears attractive but is infrequently climbed due to friable and loose rock. Getting ThereFrom Cortina d'Ampezzo, take the highway to Falzarego Pass. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fanis Group:
Torre Grande di Falzarego West Face 5.5 PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet Falzarego Towers
Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici 5.6 PG13 Trad, 7 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II Falzarego Towers
Spigolo Sud aka the South Rib 5.7 Trad, 6 pitches, 660 feet, Grade II Sass di Stria "Hexenstein."
Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi 5.7+ Trad, 12 pitches, 1000 feet Cima Bois
Featured Route For Fanis Group
Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi 5.7+ International : Dolomites : ... : Cima Bois
The route is fairly obvious and aims towards a prominent chimney several pitches up the face. Entering the chimney is the first crux of the route and is UIAA Grade V+, or Yosemite Decimal System 5.7/5.8. As one ascends the ever narrowing face, the options are decreasing, until the crest of the arete is reached. Stay left towards the top of the route. The rock is decently solid, and opportunities for protection are also good. The descent is a walk off and ramble downhill from the col to parking a...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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