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Fanis Group

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Cima Bois 
Falzarego Towers 
Punta Alpini 
Sass di Stria "Hexenstein." 
Sass Dlacia 

Fanis Group 


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Page Views: 9,102
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Nov 22, 2011
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The Falzarego Towers and Punta Alpini form a triad...

Description 

The Fanis group begins atop Falzarego Pass on the way in to Cortina d'Ampezzo and ends at the Forcella Bois. A notable summit is the Sass di Stria, or "Hexenstein." Literally, Witch's Rock; also included is the Cima Bois, a popular and easily accessible formation. The Fanis Tower or Fanis Turm appears attractive but is infrequently climbed due to friable and loose rock.


Getting There 

From Cortina d'Ampezzo, take the highway to Falzarego Pass.


Climbing Season


20 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fanis Group:
Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 450'   Falzarego Towers
Spigolo Sud aka the South Rib   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 660'   Sass di Stria "Hexenstein."
Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 12 pitches, 1000'   Cima Bois
Browse More Classics in Fanis Group

Featured Route For Fanis Group
Exposed traverse on pitch 2.

Torre Piccola, "via della Guide" 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  Europe : Italy : ... : Falzarego Towers
The route consists of 9 wonderful leads of exposed climbing on excellent rock. Pitch 1 is quite easy and is fairly short, ending on a decent belay stance after about only 50 feet. Pitch 2 traverses left (exposed but easy climbing) to a short dihedral which terminates atop a flake (same belay as Comici Route). Pitch 3 climbs diagonally right, trending towards a chimney/gully system. Pitch 4 follows the gully/chimney and involves a bit of fun stemming. Pitch 5 is the crux, and may have a move or 2...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Fanis Group Slideshow Add Photo
Cima Scotoni with a flag of fog on the right, Punta del Lago in the middle, and Monte Cavallo on the left
Cima Scotoni with a flag of fog on the right, Punt...
Cunterines-Spitze from Sass Dlacia
Cunterines-Spitze from Sass Dlacia
Spigolo col dei Bos is in the center.
Spigolo col dei Bos is in the center.
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By Rodger Raubach
Oct 31, 2013

The entire Fanis area was once part of Austria, and old military ruins are everywhere. The mountains themselves are honeycombed with old tunnels connecting fortifications. This was the frontier/front lines during W.W. I. Many of the paths are ex-military mule paths.