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This route doesn't get fat very often but if it does it is a must do, it is a lot of fun. Can be done in two pitches but also in one with a 70m rope. Start right on the easy slab and make your way up to the beautiful column, that is very inviting. Once past the slab move to the left of the ice flow this requires a semi awkward traverse. From here climb up the steep ice using all the rests you can get, just before the top there is sometimes a foot on the rock fin that sticks out, be careful with the crampons...
When you approach from the Blackjack Boulders this route is the tall column directly in front of you, look at a picture and it will be easy to see and hard to miss.
Screws of all lengths, at least one long screw to put at the base of the column, also rock gear because there will be optional rock gear up through the route but mainy at the bottom.
Completely worked at this point...
Chopping on the crux...
This is a picture showing the starting slab.
This is looking up from the Black JAck Boulders (b...
Sorry about the excesive pictures but I need to sh...
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 11, 2009
I have heard that the FA of this route is Chris Hassig does anyone know if this is true?
|By Ryan Barber|
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 20, 2012
Yes, Chris Hassig and Bob Pike, 1978 according to "An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England, 3rd Ed." by S. Peter Lewis & Rick Wilcox.
|By dave custer|
Mar 16, 2014
During moments of abundant ice, Fangmanship and Reason to Be Cheerful (the left fang) have direct starts to the left of the ramp on the right that leads up under Molar/Headwall.