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 ADVANCED
Triple Corners
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Fangmanship 
Headwall 
K9  T 
More Cheerful, Less Reason 

Fangmanship 

WI5

   
Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus: WI5 [details]
FA: Chris Hassig and Bob Pike, 1978
Season: winter
Page Views: 1,191
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Jan 8, 2009

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Great Route!!! Start on the slab to the right. ...

Description 

This route doesn't get fat very often but if it does it is a must do, it is a lot of fun. Can be done in two pitches but also in one with a 70m rope. Start right on the easy slab and make your way up to the beautiful column, that is very inviting. Once past the slab move to the left of the ice flow this requires a semi awkward traverse. From here climb up the steep ice using all the rests you can get, just before the top there is sometimes a foot on the rock fin that sticks out, be careful with the crampons...

Location 

When you approach from the Blackjack Boulders this route is the tall column directly in front of you, look at a picture and it will be easy to see and hard to miss.

Protection 

Screws of all lengths, at least one long screw to put at the base of the column, also rock gear because there will be optional rock gear up through the route but mainy at the bottom.


Photos of Fangmanship Slideshow Add Photo
Completely worked at this point...
Completely worked at this point...
Chopping on the crux...
Chopping on the crux...
This is a picture showing the starting slab.
This is a picture showing the starting slab.
This is looking up from the Black JAck Boulders (b...
This is looking up from the Black JAck Boulders (b...
Sorry about the excesive pictures but I need to sh...
Sorry about the excesive pictures but I need to sh...

Comments on Fangmanship Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 11, 2009

I have heard that the FA of this route is Chris Hassig does anyone know if this is true?
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 20, 2012

Yes, Chris Hassig and Bob Pike, 1978 according to "An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England, 3rd Ed." by S. Peter Lewis & Rick Wilcox.
By dave custer
Mar 16, 2014

During moments of abundant ice, Fangmanship and Reason to Be Cheerful (the left fang) have direct starts to the left of the ramp on the right that leads up under Molar/Headwall.