This rock is the most often climbed in Middle Earth. It has classic easy to moderate routes, such as Quick Beam and Hrum Hroom. This is a popular place for guides to teach clients how to climb. This rock can be crowded, but for good reason. It has well protected (for the Needles) face climbs that lead to cool summits.
Fanghorn Hills has rap anchors and descent can be made in one rope.
Follow the trail around the Outlets and up the hill to the start of Middle Earth. Instead of going down at the hill crest, take a left and follow a trail up the hillside for a short distance. Fanghorn Hills is on the right. Look for a low angle knobby climb (Quick Beam), and a longer bolted route to the left (Hrum Hroom).
Climbing Season For the Middle Earth area.
Weather station 5.9 miles from here
4 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Fanghorn Hills
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fanghorn Hills:
Enting 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Quickbeam 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Hrum Hroom 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Precious 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport, 75'
Featured Route For Fanghorn Hills
Hrum Hroom 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b SD
: Custer State Park
: ... : Fanghorn Hills
This route is located shortly after you crest the hill on the right. You'll see Goldberry Lane on Ered Lithui on the left at the top of the hill. Quickbeam is on the right, just before you crest the hill. There's a large boulder (rock fin) in the middle at the crest to confuse you a bit. Use your alpine route finding skills :-) I used John Pages green book ("Recommened Climbs...") for the approach.Crux is getting to the first bolt and maybe a move past it. After 1st bolt, I climbed a bit right b...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
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