|Type:||Aid, 5 pitches, 650', Grade IV|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C3 [details]|
|FA:||Kyle Copeland and John Middendorf 1988|
|Submitted By:||ErikK on Mar 8, 2007|
|***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Fang Spire||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bill Bones
Apr 1, 2008
|One of the best non trade routes in Zion. The artificial Aid is a bit lame "just to keep the grade harder" but good none the less. Cool top out. It's missing a summit register:( 2 sky hooks and 2 talons will do you just right unless you want to bring a rack of both for placements.|
By John McNamee
From: Littleton, CO
Feb 20, 2009
By Darin Berdinka
Nov 22, 2013
Climbed the spire in November 2013. Great summit with some excellent climbing. Based on the condition of the rap tat it doesn't see a lot of traffic.
Approach sucks but only takes about an hour.
Anchors are all plenty good.
P1 is long and straightforward. P2 has easy free climbing (5.7?) but is the aid crux with a stretch of bad brass and hooks just before the anchor. P3 is glorious but felt quite a bit easier than the 5.9+ C3 rating. Skip the first anchor and continue to the deluxe rap station. P4 and P5 are a bit of a let down due to a very contrived level of risk. P4 has many "rivets" which appear to be copperheads lightly pressed into holes. P5 starts with 30+' of bathooks before a mantle leads to some stimulating slab climbing. Looked to me like there's a free climbing prize waiting up there via significant variations to this route.
double set of brass and stoppers
3x small to 0.75 Camalot
2x #1 - #3 Camalot
1x #4 C4 Camalot
hooks included 2x bathooks or filed Cliff Hangers/Grappling hooks
definitely bring #0.25 - #1 Tricams