|Type: ||Aid, 5 pitches, 650', Grade IV|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a C3 [details]|
|FA: ||Kyle Copeland and John Middendorf 1988|
|Page Views: ||2,579|
|Submitted By: ||ErikK on Mar 8, 2007|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Closer shot of Heidi Gledhill and Derrick Fassbend...
This is the sugar-capped spire that stands in front of East Temple. This route has some really cool, exposed hooking on solid sandstone and some other creative aid .
There is good topo from bigwall.com.
There is also an updated topo in the visitor center.
This route goes all clean; no hammers needed.
- Two sets of HB offsets or micro nuts
- Three sets of C4s #.3 - #.4
Park at the pull off 1/2mile up on the Mt. Carmel Hwy form the Zion Canyon Rd. and Mt. Carmel Hwy junction. The pull off is on the left just before the bridge.
The Fang Spire is almost directly above the pullout on the left side of East Temple. Basically follow the trail that leads out from the pull off along the river and go directly up to the base. It's a short but steep approach.
|By Bill Bones|
Apr 1, 2008
One of the best non trade routes in Zion. The artificial Aid is a bit lame "just to keep the grade harder" but good none the less. Cool top out. It's missing a summit register:( 2 sky hooks and 2 talons will do you just right unless you want to bring a rack of both for placements.
|By Darin Berdinka|
Nov 22, 2013
Climbed the spire in November 2013. Great summit with some excellent climbing. Based on the condition of the rap tat it doesn't see a lot of traffic.
Approach sucks but only takes about an hour.
Anchors are all plenty good.
P1 is long and straightforward. P2 has easy free climbing (5.7?) but is the aid crux with a stretch of bad brass and hooks just before the anchor. P3 is glorious but felt quite a bit easier than the 5.9+ C3 rating. Skip the first anchor and continue to the deluxe rap station. P4 and P5 are a bit of a let down due to a very contrived level of risk. P4 has many "rivets" which appear to be copperheads lightly pressed into holes. P5 starts with 30+' of bathooks before a mantle leads to some stimulating slab climbing. Looked to me like there's a free climbing prize waiting up there via significant variations to this route.
double set of brass and stoppers
3x small to 0.75 Camalot
2x #1 - #3 Camalot
1x #4 C4 Camalot
hooks included 2x bathooks or filed Cliff Hangers/Grappling hooks
definitely bring #0.25 - #1 Tricams