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After Stick clipping the first bolt and pulling the start the angle decreases to only mildly steep, but the holds shrink and the climbing gets technical. Pull the first crux involving a long reach of an undercling and head up to the second harder crux. Grab a sharp, painful, awkward pocket, make a hard pull and hit the better holds above. Slightly run-out at the top, but much easier climbing.
Between Path to Enlightenment and the now chopped Guillotine. Look for the Steep route with left angling bolts at the center - right side of the cave.
Bolts to Anchors; Stickclip
|By Bill Ballace|
Nov 8, 2007
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Cool route but be aware of loose rock!
|By Heath Bailey|
Oct 10, 2011
The taller climber (or the climber with bigger fingers) can avoid the heinous cutter pocket by turning a right-hand jug that might not help you otherwise into an upside-down pistol grip, stepping high onto the right face and straightening the arm to gain the good left-hand pocket in the dihedral. A few more more fighting moves, and its a scramble for the anchors! You can count on me for some jingus beta but it works.