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Unnamed T,S 

Fandango 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: George Connor, David Babich, 1978
Page Views: 2,325
Submitted By: Victor on Jul 15, 2009

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Looking down from the top of the first pitch of Fa...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

First pitch (190ft) goes up a finger crack, then a bit of dike hiking to finish the pitch. Second pitch (150ft) is a bit unclear. The route we took goes up just right of the belay station, then tends towards the dihedral on the left.

Location 

50ft to the west of Psychedelic Tree the trail curves down and right towards the Central Wall. From here stay left along the wall, on a faint trail. This leads to the start of Fandango.

Protection 

Standard Rack to 2.5", nuts, focus on small cams.
Gear anchor (possibly bolts?) for first pitch. Pitons at the top of the route.


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By bone dry cappuccino
Jul 7, 2014

My boyfriend and I just did the route yesterday. Nice route, decent quality rock, no loose blocks and good protection all the way up. We would recommend a double set of small to 2 inch cams, one 2 1/2 inch cam and a double set of nuts. The 2nd pitch wanders a bit, so bring a few double-length slings.

Very good climbing with the caveat that Fandango has the worst top-off of the Leap, and this right next to the spectacular one at Psychedelic Tree. The very last 30 feet before topping out is very dirty, guess this route doesn't see much traffic.

But overall, a very good climb with no lines!
The route on the left is Psychedelic Tree, the one on the right is Fandango.
The route on the left is Psychedelic Tree, the one on the right is Fandango.