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Photo features the spectacular 2nd pitch of Fancy ...
This is a high quality line with great movement on solid rock.
P1 (5.10c): Follow bolt line to a roof with anchors. This is a great pitch by itself and many people only do this pitch.
P2 (5.11d or 5.9 C1) Pull the roof on crimps and sidepulls to good incut flakes protected by bolts. The step slightly right into a Flared crack with good jams in the back of it. Exit the crack left at the top on good edges.
Left of the dental bill and right of the the Blue Roof.
14 draws and two cams (#1, #2, or #3 BD) if you do it as one pitch. Otherwise the 1st pitch is 7 QD + anchor.
By jeremy ward
From: las vegas, nevada
Jan 19, 2011
The first pitch is absolutely classic and is one of the best of it's grade in So Ill
By jhn payne
Jan 5, 2013
Bitter sweet, being that's its closed,stirs some strong sentiment in a lot of folks and yes "Fancy Lads" is a cool route.