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 ADVANCED
Draper's Bluff
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Kittens S 
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Fancy Lads 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 571
Submitted By: Jon Richard on Apr 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Photo features the spectacular 2nd pitch of Fancy ...

Draper closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a high quality line with great movement on solid rock.

P1 (5.10c): Follow bolt line to a roof with anchors. This is a great pitch by itself and many people only do this pitch.

P2 (5.11d or 5.9 C1) Pull the roof on crimps and sidepulls to good incut flakes protected by bolts. The step slightly right into a Flared crack with good jams in the back of it. Exit the crack left at the top on good edges.

Location 

Left of the dental bill and right of the the Blue Roof.

Protection 

14 draws and two cams (#1, #2, or #3 BD) if you do it as one pitch. Otherwise the 1st pitch is 7 QD + anchor.


Photos of Fancy Lads Slideshow Add Photo
At the 11d crux!
At the 11d crux!

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By jeremy ward
From: las vegas, nevada
Jan 19, 2011

The first pitch is absolutely classic and is one of the best of it's grade in So Ill
By jhn payne
Jan 5, 2013

Bitter sweet, being that's its closed,stirs some strong sentiment in a lot of folks and yes "Fancy Lads" is a cool route.