Fancy Idiot 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Anne Church and Krist Raubenheimer (1955) |
| Submitted By: | Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008 |
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description P1 - Climb the face to the crescent-shaped flake/corner and a fixed pin. Move up the corner a bit to a ledge (Williams' guide notes a 5.8 variation by climbing a corner to the right - never done it myself), then up to a tree/rap station. Climb the thin face (small gear helpful here), then straight up to a nice ledge, then diagonal up left to loose blocks and a belay/rap tree.
P2 - I have only followed this, has broken rock and is not great. Climb the corner above the belay to a bush, pass it on the right, then move left under the ceiling to a corner. Climb a flake to access the corner (crux), and follow it to the top, then traverse right about 20 feet to a tree belay/rap station.
Location Just left of Bunny below a crescent-shaped flake.
Descend by Uberfall Descent, to climber's right.
Protection Standard Gunks rack plus Lowe Balls and microcams such as Wild Country Zeros or Black Alien.
By SethG
May 11, 2011
| I think it's kind of wacko that Dick gives this climb a star. The first pitch has at most two interesting spots-- one move at the crescent-shaped crack, and then another thin move above the next ledge at the pin. But that's about it. The 5.4 second pitch is a little more interesting than it appears it will be, but this is outweighed by the loose rock, the bushes, the dirty ledges, and the lichen.
I took a look at the 5.9 toprope variation mentioned in Dick's book-- it goes through a cool-looking roof, but this too hardly seems worth the trouble.
I'm not sorry I did the first pitch once but I'll likely never go back again. |
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 15, 2011
| I agree wtih Seth. This is a crappy climb. ONly good for running a TR on the harder variation. Not worth doing and so so gear. |
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