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a. The Uberfall
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Unsorted Routes:

Fancy Idiot 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Anne Church and Krist Raubenheimer (1955)
Page Views: 750
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
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Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


P1 - Climb the face to the crescent-shaped flake/corner and a fixed pin. Move up the corner a bit to a ledge (Williams' guide notes a 5.8 variation by climbing a corner to the right - never done it myself), then up to a tree/rap station. Climb the thin face (small gear helpful here), then straight up to a nice ledge, then diagonal up left to loose blocks and a belay/rap tree.

P2 - I have only followed this, has broken rock and is not great. Climb the corner above the belay to a bush, pass it on the right, then move left under the ceiling to a corner. Climb a flake to access the corner (crux), and follow it to the top, then traverse right about 20 feet to a tree belay/rap station.


Just left of Bunny below a crescent-shaped flake.

Descend by Uberfall Descent, to climber's right.


Standard Gunks rack plus Lowe Balls and microcams such as Wild Country Zeros or Black Alien.

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By SethG
May 11, 2011

I think it's kind of wacko that Dick gives this climb a star. The first pitch has at most two interesting spots-- one move at the crescent-shaped crack, and then another thin move above the next ledge at the pin. But that's about it. The 5.4 second pitch is a little more interesting than it appears it will be, but this is outweighed by the loose rock, the bushes, the dirty ledges, and the lichen.

I took a look at the 5.9 toprope variation mentioned in Dick's book-- it goes through a cool-looking roof, but this too hardly seems worth the trouble.

I'm not sorry I did the first pitch once but I'll likely never go back again.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 15, 2011

I agree wtih Seth. This is a crappy climb. ONly good for running a TR on the harder variation. Not worth doing and so so gear.