Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
a. The Uberfall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 T 
Apoplexy T 
BB Route T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Boston T,TR 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
CC Route T 
Charie TR 
Clover T 
Coronary T,TR 
Crimson Corner T 
Das Wiggles T 
DD Route T 
Dirty Chimney T 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Eyesore T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 
Flake, The T,TR 
Handy Andy T 
Harvard T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 
Junior T,TR 
Katzenjammer T 
Ken's Crack T 
Keyhole T 
Laurel T 
Low Exposure T 
Lower Eaves T 
Mitty Mouse  T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Phoebe T,TR 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Rhododendron T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Shitty Mitty T,TR 
Short and Simple T 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Squiggles T 
Squiggles Direct T,TR 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie A T 
Trapped Like a Rat T 
Uberfall Descent T 
Walter Mitty T 
Yale T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fancy Idiot 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Anne Church and Krist Raubenheimer (1955)
Page Views: 905
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Balance-y crux move on Fancy Idiot.

Description 

P1 - Climb the face to the crescent-shaped flake/corner and a fixed pin. Move up the corner a bit to a ledge (Williams' guide notes a 5.8 variation by climbing a corner to the right - never done it myself), then up to a tree/rap station. Climb the thin face (small gear helpful here), then straight up to a nice ledge, then diagonal up left to loose blocks and a belay/rap tree.

P2 - I have only followed this, has broken rock and is not great. Climb the corner above the belay to a bush, pass it on the right, then move left under the ceiling to a corner. Climb a flake to access the corner (crux), and follow it to the top, then traverse right about 20 feet to a tree belay/rap station.

Location 

Just left of Bunny below a crescent-shaped flake.

Descend by Uberfall Descent, to climber's right.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack plus Lowe Balls and microcams such as Wild Country Zeros or Black Alien.


Comments on Fancy Idiot Add Comment
Show which comments
By SethG
May 11, 2011

I think it's kind of wacko that Dick gives this climb a star. The first pitch has at most two interesting spots-- one move at the crescent-shaped crack, and then another thin move above the next ledge at the pin. But that's about it. The 5.4 second pitch is a little more interesting than it appears it will be, but this is outweighed by the loose rock, the bushes, the dirty ledges, and the lichen.

I took a look at the 5.9 toprope variation mentioned in Dick's book-- it goes through a cool-looking roof, but this too hardly seems worth the trouble.

I'm not sorry I did the first pitch once but I'll likely never go back again.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 15, 2011

I agree wtih Seth. This is a crappy climb. ONly good for running a TR on the harder variation. Not worth doing and so so gear.
By Kurtz
Oct 8, 2014

Sorry, guys. I liked it (but I'm not very picky). Great route name. You have to walk off if you do P2.
By Mthoresz
Oct 13, 2014

I liked this one. Nothing crazy, but fun balance-y start moves and the little move through the crescent-shaped thing. It's a good add-on to TR if you're doing Bunny.