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 ADVANCED
l. Sleepy Hollow
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Restless Virgins T 
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 
Almost Pure and Simple T 
Art's Route T 
Boron Destroyer T 
Casa Emilio T 
Casablanca T 
Casanova T 
Counterstrike T 
Crack of Despondency T 
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 
Dick's Prick T 
Emilietta T 
Fancy Free T 
Footloose T 
Four-Foot Face T 
Headless Horseman T 
Independent Hangover T 
Lone Ranger, The T 
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 
Pfui Teufel T 
Roger's Escape Hatch T 
Tennish Anyone? T 
Trigger Point T 
V.D. T 
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 

Fancy Free 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Annie O'Neill, 1981
Page Views: 450
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Sep 21, 2009

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Get gear early...you're climbing above a chasm.

Description 

Climb the large, left facing corner for about 30 feet. Just past a small roof there is a thin crack on the right face of the dihedral. Traverse the crack right to the arete (crux), then up this to a threaded rap station. You could continue past this point for more cliombing, but most of the the rock above is absolutely choked with lichen.

Location 

At the S turn on the carriage road at the end of the Trapps, head into the woods. Fancy Free is down and right of the Dick's Prick pinnacle.

Protection 

Several small TCUS, e.g, Metolius OO and 0 for the crux.


Photos of Fancy Free Slideshow Add Photo
Amit halfway through the crux.
Amit halfway through the crux.

Comments on Fancy Free Add Comment
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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 23, 2012

Very fun climbing. The corner is mild, but it leads to a deviously thin traverse. It's all there! Threaded rap station was in good shape as of October 2012