Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tombstone
Select Route:
Coffin Dodger T 
Epitaph, The T 
Family Plot T 
Gift, The T 
Keswick Lads Day Out.  T 
R.I.P. 
Rigor Mortis T 

Family Plot 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 340', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1 [details]
FA: Paul and Andy Ross 10/2000
Page Views: 2,049
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 20, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: family plot

Description 

Start just right of Keswick Lads Day Out on the north side of the formation. Watch out for weak friable rock in sections of the crack.

Pitch 1: 100' 5.7 C1Make a long reach to the first pin then aid past three bolts to a good finger sized crack. Clean aid the crack using TCU's. Pass a pod with some wide crack and a short section of easy free climbing. Continue aiding the thin crack to a bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 85' 5.8 C1Aid the hand and fist sized crack up and over the roof. After the roof make some slabby moves on slippery sandy stone before aiding one last steep section and making one more scary free move to the anchor.

Pitch 3: 100' 5.5Follow the offwidth up and left until it turns into a 4th class chimney and belay from gear near the summit.

Protection 

wires and lots of tcu's and cams up to 4 inches with many extra TCU's.


Photos of Family Plot Slideshow Add Photo
Paul on first ascent ..first pitch
Paul on first ascent ..first pitch
aiding off the bolts on pitch 1
aiding off the bolts on pitch 1
Nearing the top of the first pitch. This is a low ...
Nearing the top of the first pitch. This is a low ...
Ben Kiessel on pitch one.
Ben Kiessel on pitch one.
Nathan Sydnor free climbing Family Plot's crux fir...
Nathan Sydnor free climbing Family Plot's crux fir...

Comments on Family Plot Add Comment
Show which comments
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 31, 2004

the route FAMILY Plot is right of KESWICK LADS DAY OUT.. First climbed in Oct 2000 by P and A Ross. A full discription is in Desert Rock IV by Bjornstad
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Oct 31, 2004

It's a little over 200' from the top of pitch 2 to the summit. We downclimbed the slabs and the offwidth (tedious) and rapped the route. A faster way to finish Family Plot would be to lug the gear to the top and rap RIP.The belay/rappel anchor for RIP is real obvious, close to the summit.
By Brejcha
Oct 26, 2006

I climbed this route in april-ish of 05, the first pitch was a fun crack, I got a nice sand shower at the pitch 1 belay. I also got stung on the finger by a wasp at the first belay. We rapped kenswick so we could scope it.

Just a warning-- someone shot at the anchors at the top of the first pitch on Kenswick, there were bullet holes in the webbing and a few bullets hit within an inch of the bolts, one got knicked too. It's kinda scary because there's not much of a stance there and the bolts are not too good anymore.
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Nov 16, 2006

Keswick Lads Day Out:- Last year (2005) someone had left a full fixed rope at the belay of the big corner mentioned above . This rope was in place for quite some considerable time . This is the reason some gun happy cowboy shot the crap out of the anchors trying to get the rope . More blame should be given to the climbers who abandoned this rope, leaving it flapping in the breeze for months.
By Ben Kiessel
Apr 23, 2007

Ditto what Crusher said. We did what he did, and recommend what he recommends.
By Jay 1975
From: Colorado
Aug 10, 2007

the third bolt was pulled straight out when my buddy stood on it, and he decked...broken foot. just shows how skipping bolts on a bolt ladder isn't the best decision always, or on soft rock. bolt is now gone though.
By Brad Brandewie
Dec 2, 2007

More photos and a TR at piquaclimber.com/past/tombston...
By herb crimp
Aug 25, 2015

Nathan Sydnor and I recently freed this route. Nate led the first pitch free, which we think weighs in at about 12-. The second pitch went at a very sandy mid 11. A lot of the climbing features awesome varnish but you should expect a veneer of sand.
By Nate Sydnor
Aug 26, 2015

FFA - Sydnor, Crimp, Cheng, Wiggins - August 18, 2015
A big thanks to the gang for coming out to make it happen. Props to Herb for on-sighting the sandy second pitch as darkness approached. Also, thanks to Ed and Jaybro for going out there with me the first time to check it out. And mostly, thanks to Evelyn for going out twice to support my blind ambition! Bring red c3s and blue TCUs for the first crux, and good awkward desert skills for the upper pitch. Otherwise, standard desert rack.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!