Family Jewels 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Darryl Roth, Mark Van Horn, '89 |
| Submitted By: | Monomaniac on May 30, 2007 |
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Description An old-school classic that is unfortunately marred by the 2002 addition of a new squeezejob to the right. It's hard to feel like you're not cheating when your foot is 2 inches from one of the neighboring route's bolts.
Begin up a slabby prow on stellar rock clipping homemade angle-iron hangers. Some tricky moves at the top of the slab lead to a rest at the horizontal break. Move right onto the face where thin crimping and the occasional pocket lead to a clean, rippled panel. A thin two-finger pocket and a big dyno gain a sickled-shaped ripple that offers some marginal crimps. Move quickly with poor feet to the anchor.
Location First route right of My Testosterone... on the S end of the Vault.
Protection Bolts to 2 BA. This anchor could be improved. The right bolt has two SMC hollow aluminum rap rings. A screw link or two would make a world of difference.
| Comments on Family Jewels |
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By Jay Park
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2008
| I found the crux move on top pretty tough and a little reachy. Using the highest foot I can use with my left foot and upside down horn with my left hand, I can just barely reach the sloper top with fingertip of my right hand. Overall a pretty good climb with increasing difficulty toward the top. I think you can skip the crux by going to the crack on the far left, but I don't recommend it. Getting back to the line is pretty saucy, I think. |
By richard magill
May 10, 2010
| Great line, seems to get harder with every move!
Just follow the bolts: even if you could "skip the crux" (which I doubt), that would be lame - the crux is awesome. Also no issues with the nearby routes. Great - do it! |
By slim
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b
| This thing keeps coming at you. Sharp, thin, technical, devious, excellent. A lot of tricky footwork and long reaches to small holds. Hell of a route. Just when you think you are through the crux, be ready for one last stretch that is not easy. At all. |
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