Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
2nd Meat Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
At Your Cervix 
Bacon in the Sun 
Boss Hog 
Camping Under the Influence 
Carnivore 
Cube Steaks 
End Of The Line 
Evening Ecstacy 
Extra Lean 
Family Home Night 
Gouge On It 
Green Eggs & Ham 
Hot Pork Sundae 
Humble Pie 
Idaho Flake 
Low Cholesterol 
Meat Machine 
Meat ya later 
Meating Jesus 
Mouse Meat 
Nerve Damage 
Ninja Bedwetter 
Pastafarian, The 
Pleased To Meat You 
Potato, The 
Samarai Loving 
Sesh One Cooking 
Smell the Meat 
Swedish meat balls 
Sweet Meats 
Switch, The 
T-Bones Tonight 
Tofu Crack 
Top Sirloin 
Tube Steaks Tomorrow 
Two Timer 
Two Timer II 
Unknown long corner 
Unknown R of Tube Steaks 
Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake 
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter 

Family Home Night 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,830
Submitted By: Max on Mar 31, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Carter crushing it

Description 

Stellar route with difficult moves between good rests. Steep hands lead to angling off fingers and a switch around a pillar. Small nuts and a .00 TCU help protect a few faces moves up to a rest. Fire the crux off-fingers splitter which barely widens to thin hands at the top. Relish how fun the route was.


Location 

Right of Cube Steaks


Protection 

small nuts; 1x .00 TCU; a couple blue and yellow TCU; 4x 1"; six .75 Camalots; two #2 Friends; a couple hand pieces



Photos of Family Home Night Slideshow Add Photo
Catching some air off the crux
Catching some air off the crux
A great route with three distinct sections.
A great route with three distinct sections.
Comments on Family Home Night Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 27, 2007

This is my favorite route on 2nd Meat Wall. It has great variety and climbs an amazing and challenging splitter on tough sizes. Despite the thin "face" section it still protects well and seemed very safe to me. As per typical IC, this is a five star route which few have ever heard of. It should be considered one of the classics for the grade.
Don't be mislead by the route description. Once you commit to the layback/fingerstacks, the next rest is a long ways up and after climbing some real tough sizes.

By Scott Bennett
Jan 7, 2009
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

I loved this route, I hope to go back and send. I thought that the pro in the middle "face-y" section kinda sucked, all I got was a bad 000 c3 and a very small brass nut, without much of a constriction. I wouldn't be surprised if both pieces ripped considering the soft rock. That being said, it's only one fairly easy (10a?) move up to where the crack widens out and will take a green alien. If you've got a good shot at sending the route, the sketchy section shouldn't phase you.

By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Oct 24, 2011

In the facey section I got a ok nut in, nothing to protect me from a reasonble whipper but good enough to let me get a tight but GOOD purple (00) BD C3 and then a foot later a beautiful green (0)BD C3. I also thought that I'd finish the route at the top on only 0.75 BD C4's but I was glad to have a red (1.0) BD C4 for the end.

By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Sep 30, 2012

A quality route, with engaging and challenging climbing. Good rests keep it from being too sustained. But some heady moves keep your attention. You really don't want to fall once embarking on the "banana splitter" down low, at least until you're well established in the flare after the banana. And, once you leave the ledge, it's again "no fall territory" until you're 15ish feet above the ledge. You can get in some marginal gear, but calm and techy climbing provide better protection than your gear. Once in the final splitter you could take a good clean 50 footer and be fine. Just keep it together till you're out of the stacks!

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Nov 1, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

A bomber blue Alien and or .2 Camalot (I place both) protect the middle face section just fine. I just climb up a couple feet off the ledge, place and clip the gear and then climb back down to rest. If your short the gear placements might be hard to reach.