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Family Butte

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Family Butte  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: USBRIT on Nov 8, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Family Butte with the November 2012 first ascent ...

Description 

Perhaps all the towers on Family Butte have seen ascents by routes dating from the early 1990s. From the summit of our first ascent in November 2012, rap anchors could be seen on some of the various summits. Very little is known of these ascents, only one climb on what is know as the Daughter Tower is described in Cam Burns desert guide. Below will be what we know so far of the climbs on the towers. Anyone with descriptions and other info are invited to add to the site.

Getting There 

Family Butte is on the right of the road that leads to Reds Canyon. This road goes south from exit 131 on I70 - the exit is about 30 miles west of Green River. From the exit, go left under I70 and follow good dirt roads towards Reds Canyon. You will see the obvious towers at about 15 miles. Camping areas can be found in the area. The foot of the towers can be reached from the road in about 20 minutes. Family Butte is marked on maps of the San Rafael Swell.

Climbing Season



Weather station 20.2 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Family Butte
The Route. Rising Sons.

Rising Sons 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2  UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Family Butte
Rising Son takes a direct line up the SW face of the tallest of tower of the Family Butte known as Mother Tower. Overall the white wingate rock is excellent.P1) The climb goes up an offwidth that starts up an awkward overhung V groove. Struggle up the crack (two #6 two #5 one #4 friends useful) that crosses the climb that goes up the Daughter Tower to the right past two bolts on this climb to double anchors on the sloping ledge. 80' 5.8 C1P2) Move into the fine right facing cor...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Family Butte Slideshow Add Photo
A)South Tower unknown route many bolts seen near summit headwall. Starts around the corner from here up an offwidth crack.B)Daughter Tower climb. FA James Garrett Alan Murphy 5.10+ C1 Oct 1990 FFA.Mike Friedricks Gene Roush 1991 5.11.C) New Route (Mother Tower) C2 5.7 Shingo Ohkawa. Paul Ross. Andy Ross 7th November 2012 D)Son of Putterman Tower. Mexican Gravy Pants. C1 Cam Burns ,Benny Bach 1993.
BETA PHOTO: A)South Tower unknown route many bolts seen near s...
This is the NW back side of Mother Tower .The crack to the right of the rapper is about 100' and  according to the summit register has had several ascents . The first ascent may have been done in 2002 by Layne Potter and family members grade unknown?This is the descent used by the new climb on the much bigger SE face.
BETA PHOTO: This is the NW back side of Mother Tower .The crac...

Comments on Family Butte Add Comment
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By James Garrett
Nov 10, 2012
A Rock Climbing Guidebook written by Moab local Eric Bjornstad in 1997 offers quite a bit of history actually. All six towers have had names for at least since the early 90s. The summit registers probably were insecurely attached and have since blown away is my best guess.

Alien Child and The Daughter, p 244-245 (both named after Franziska who was at the time a "Registered Alien Green Card holder" and who had recently lost her Father (Swiss Gentleman, p244) to an accident in Switzerland) and Son Of Putterman (bolt ladder removed by Cam) all went up the longer south side walls. I would guess my old friend and Swell Explorer Layne Potter from Huntington aptly nabbed the FA of Mother via the shorter back (north) side with his son.

Good job on the long side.