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The Main Amphitheater
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Accidental Tourist, The 
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False Prophet 
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There Will Be Blood 
Walking Far From Home 

False Prophet 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,178
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Apr 13, 2009
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Carrie Albrecht getting used to the idea...

Description 

Techy physical stemming! Start at the head-height roof on the far left side of the Main Amphitheater in a large, right-facing corner. Follow cracks up past jams and edges to the roof. From there move out right and get established in the stem box. Expect a lot of sustained stemming as the angle gets steeper, until the apex of the angle coincides with the crux of the route. Full body pump! All bolts after roof at mid height.

False Prophet has become an Amphitheater classic and is an overall excellent stemming route. This line was my way up to get anchors on There Will Be Blood, and what I thought might be fairly moderate terrain turned out to be steep and devoid of any meaningful gear placements. One of the reasons the upper portions of the route are so well protected now is because on the ground up FA I was only able to get terrible wires and RP placements making the lead nerve wracking until placing a bolt every body length. I could'nt even find decent knifeblades. So what I thought would be 5.10 before I started, turned out to be a full grade harder, though the mission was still highly successful...


Location 

The far left side of the Amphitheater, forty feet right or so of the Sword. Starts at very low- head height roof.


Protection 

Single set of cams to 1", wires, 9 bolts.



Photos of False Prophet Slideshow Add Photo
Carrie giving the False Prophet 5.11+ a reason to whimper!
Carrie giving the False Prophet 5.11+ a reason to ...
Wade Forrest finding a unique press.
Wade Forrest finding a unique press.
Wade Forrest running a lap on the False Prophet.
Wade Forrest running a lap on the False Prophet.
Dillon on False Prophet
Dillon on False Prophet
Colin Cox getting a taste of stems on his onsight.
Colin Cox getting a taste of stems on his onsight.
Wade Forrest cranking it out...
Wade Forrest cranking it out...
Colin Cox
Colin Cox
Dr. David Daily on the False P.
Dr. David Daily on the False P.
Colin Cox sticking with it...
Colin Cox sticking with it...
Mike at the crux.
Mike at the crux.
Comments on False Prophet Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dean Hoffman
Nov 22, 2009

JJ super fun route with great move and sequences, strong work.

By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 12, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Get flexible! Great stemming, wonderful holds, and fantastic rock.