|The Main Amphitheater
Techy physical stemming! Start at the head-height roof on the far left side of the Main Amphitheater in a large, right-facing corner. Follow cracks up past jams and edges to the roof. From there move out right and get established in the stem box. Expect a lot of sustained stemming as the angle gets steeper, until the apex of the angle coincides with the crux of the route. Full body pump! All bolts after roof at mid height.
False Prophet has become an Amphitheater classic and is an overall excellent stemming route. This line was my way up to get anchors on There Will Be Blood, and what I thought might be fairly moderate terrain turned out to be steep and devoid of any meaningful gear placements. One of the reasons the upper portions of the route are so well protected now is because on the ground up FA I was only able to get terrible wires and RP placements making the lead nerve wracking until placing a bolt every body length. I could'nt even find decent knifeblades. So what I thought would be 5.10 before I started, turned out to be a full grade harder, though the mission was still highly successful...
The far left side of the Amphitheater, forty feet right or so of the Sword. Starts at very low- head height roof.
Single set of cams to 1", wires, 9 bolts.
|By Dean Hoffman|
Nov 22, 2009
JJ super fun route with great move and sequences, strong work.
|By Robbie Brown|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 12, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Get flexible! Great stemming, wonderful holds, and fantastic rock.