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False Hueco Boulder
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False Hueco 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder, 11'
Consensus:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,325
Submitted By: Jon McCartie on Oct 22, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: "False Hueco".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

SDS under the largest part of the roof opening. problem moves up into a large hueco and finishes on a good sharp top out.


Protection 

pad and a spotter. if you fall without a spotter, you may bounce off down the ramp.



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By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 11, 2007
rating: V1 5

Steep moves on mostly big features to a juggy topout. The sloping landing demands a careful spot.

False Hueco on Youtube -

By akforty7
From: seattle, wa
Oct 2, 2009

i thought the intention is not to fall. :) this boulder has good morning shade for those needing shelter from the sun

By Emerson Takahashi
From: SLC, UT
Nov 17, 2013
rating: V1 5

There is a fun v3/4 variation that starts on the same holds, but moves right to a rail before continuing straight up on the right side of the hueco.

By LVicious
From: La Jolla, California
Jan 2, 2014
rating: V2+ 5+ PG13

Not sure, but I did it differently than the guy in the video. I start matched in the undercling hueco and there used to be a jug out right but it has broken off. I went out left to a crimpy rail than slapped the sloper in the hueco and scored a sweet knee bar in the hueco. I'm about 5'4" so it definitely felt harder than false hueco traverse for me. Had to keep a lot of body tension and the top out was a nice rough mantle since I couldn't score anything for my right foot. It was super fun! I definitely think it is harder than V1 though - especially since holds broke.

By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Jan 4, 2014
rating: V1 5

Climbed it yesterday and I would say the V1 grade stands. Long moves at the start but the holds are big and the sidepull on the left of the hueco gives easy access to the top.

By seth o'harra
Jan 4, 2014
rating: V1-2 5

A little bit harder if you start matching down low like Leen Jamal. For the short people, or for static climbers, a right foot heel hook in the hole down low gets you a great static move to the hueco.