False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2002 |
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Mary leading False Classic Corner.
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Description Left of Classic Corner (5.7) and across from the blocky Cockroach Crag is this left-facing corner system/ramp. Good jams on clean rock make this a worthy tick if in the area and a sunny location makes this a good route to do on those chilly afternoons, although there is little to no protection from the wind. Perhaps one star out of five.
Protection pro to 3"
Tommy cruisen up T.C.O.T.M.N.
| BETA PHOTO: False Classic Corner
| Me leading the route.
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| Comments on False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) |
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By Randy Nov 5, 2003 rating: 5.6
| Also known as False Classic Corner (route 1029), due to it often being mistaken for Classic Corner. Maybe 5.7, but easier than Classic Corner. |
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA May 3, 2004
| Squeaks by with 1 star due to its shortness (about 30'), but worth a quick tick if in the area. |
By Chiranjeeb Buragohain Nov 29, 2004 rating: 5.8
| Climbed it over the weekend thinking it was the classic corner.Definitely a 5.8 getting around and above the roof.There is a set of bolts and new rap webbing a little bit up and to the right of the route.One rope rap to ground (we had a 60m). |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Oct 9, 2006
| Previous reports indicate bolts at the top. Bolts no more....gear anchor and quick and easy walk off to the south. |
By Blitzo Dec 8, 2006
| Thanks, Susan! Went up there today, no bolts. |
By Kevin Craig Nov 16, 2007 rating: 5.8-
| Definitely NOT a 5.6 going around the roof. I think it was down-graded in the latest book which it should not be. I'd put it at at least hard 5.7 and maybe harder. I cruised Classic Corner (5.7) but really struggled with this one. Shorter climbers in our group found False CC easier. Maybe it's a height thing? |
By Brian Hench From: Costa Mesa, CA Apr 2, 2008
| I am tall, and I found False Classic Corner a lot harder than Classic Corner, which was a cruise. I am weak at thin hands and that may have had a lot to do with it. We got down via the tight little chimney. No fatsos allowed! |
By Kyle Wills From: San Diego CA Dec 28, 2008 rating: 5.8
| Agreed, Classic is a cruise comparatively. However, I definitely found this route MUCH more enjoyable. What a finish! |
By DaveGustafson From: Palm Desert, CA Mar 15, 2009 rating: 5.8-
| An interesting finish to say the least. A fine route to do when planning to do Classic Corner. I thought the first move off the deck was a little interesting - especially since Mr. Vogel said 5.6 on this one! Glad to see most posters are in agreement and have upgraded to a more appropriate grade. |
By TylerW From: Flagstaff, AZ Mar 23, 2010 rating: 5.7
| definitely pretty stiff for 5.6. maybe because it is a little awkward, but I definitely found this at least as hard as classic corner. worth doing if you're in the area. |
By Justin Tomlinson From: Monrovia, CA Jan 31, 2011 rating: 5.8
| The move off the deck is a bit awkward, but overall getting to the roof was straight forward. I suppose 5.6 is a fine rating to the roof. Howerver, a Total Sandbag moving onto the face around the roof. I would definately give that move a 5.8. Plus its very awkward being jammed up into the roof trying to reach around for pro. Nonetheless, worth doing if in the area, as I was proud to work that crux with no falls. I too thought the roof moves were harder than anything on Classic Corner, which gets a higher quality rating in my mind. |
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