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 ADVANCED
Cockroach Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Classic Corner T 
Climb Of The Cockroaches T 
Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The T 
False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) T 
Leatherhead Arete, The T 
R.S. Chicken Choker T 
Roach Roof T 

False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,243
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Me leading the route.

Description 

Left of Classic Corner (5.7) and across from the blocky Cockroach Crag is this left-facing corner system/ramp. Good jams on clean rock make this a worthy tick if in the area and a sunny location makes this a good route to do on those chilly afternoons, although there is little to no protection from the wind. Perhaps one star out of five.

Protection 

pro to 3"


Photos of False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) Slideshow Add Photo
Tommy cruisen up T.C.O.T.M.N.
Tommy cruisen up T.C.O.T.M.N.
False Classic Corner
BETA PHOTO: False Classic Corner
Mary leading False Classic Corner.
Mary leading False Classic Corner.

Comments on False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 4, 2012
By Randy
Nov 5, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Also known as False Classic Corner (route 1029), due to it often being mistaken for Classic Corner. Maybe 5.7, but easier than Classic Corner.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 3, 2004

Squeaks by with 1 star due to its shortness (about 30'), but worth a quick tick if in the area.
By Chiranjeeb Buragohain
Nov 29, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed it over the weekend thinking it was the classic corner.Definitely a 5.8 getting around and above the roof.There is a set of bolts and new rap webbing a little bit up and to the right of the route.One rope rap to ground (we had a 60m).
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 9, 2006

Previous reports indicate bolts at the top. Bolts no more....gear anchor and quick and easy walk off to the south.
By Blitzo
Dec 8, 2006

Thanks, Susan! Went up there today, no bolts.
By Kevin Craig
Nov 16, 2007
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Definitely NOT a 5.6 going around the roof. I think it was down-graded in the latest book which it should not be. I'd put it at at least hard 5.7 and maybe harder. I cruised Classic Corner (5.7) but really struggled with this one. Shorter climbers in our group found False CC easier. Maybe it's a height thing?
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Apr 2, 2008

I am tall, and I found False Classic Corner a lot harder than Classic Corner, which was a cruise. I am weak at thin hands and that may have had a lot to do with it.

We got down via the tight little chimney. No fatsos allowed!
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Dec 28, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Agreed, Classic is a cruise comparatively. However, I definitely found this route MUCH more enjoyable. What a finish!
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Mar 15, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

An interesting finish to say the least. A fine route to do when planning to do Classic Corner. I thought the first move off the deck was a little interesting - especially since Mr. Vogel said 5.6 on this one! Glad to see most posters are in agreement and have upgraded to a more appropriate grade.
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

definitely pretty stiff for 5.6. maybe because it is a little awkward, but I definitely found this at least as hard as classic corner. worth doing if you're in the area.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The move off the deck is a bit awkward, but overall getting to the roof was straight forward. I suppose 5.6 is a fine rating to the roof. Howerver, a Total Sandbag moving onto the face around the roof. I would definately give that move a 5.8. Plus its very awkward being jammed up into the roof trying to reach around for pro. Nonetheless, worth doing if in the area, as I was proud to work that crux with no falls. I too thought the roof moves were harder than anything on Classic Corner, which gets a higher quality rating in my mind.
By The Gray Tradster
Feb 4, 2012

Solid 8