This rarely traveled yet quality pitch lies at the juncture of the Coke Bottle and Fall Wall. Begin as if you were going to climb TM Chimney, but then move right (as soon as it's reasonable to do so) back into the daylight, and continue straight up. There is a direct start; it is more difficult and harder to protect.
To descend, rappel from good anchors on a ledge at the top of the climb. The anchors are about 10 feet right of where you finish.
Hand sizes and bigger, up to #3.5 or #4 Camalots. The upper half of the pitch tends to take fist-sized pieces. There is a single bolt, about halfway up.
The Weber brothers climbing Fallout. The leader h...
|By Jeff G.|
From: Fort Collins
Jun 11, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
This is a great pitch that rivals other classic 5.9's at Vedauwoo.
Jul 18, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
The direct start (5.10) is really nice and protects just fine (don't understand the comments that it doesn't. . .). This is a wonderful climb; mixed up, enjoyable moves. A great moderate "sampler" for the 'Woo (whichever start you choose). Two pieces to protect 5-6" is helpful and comforting (cams or bros).Continue up one of the face climbs for a nice finish.And don't worry 'bout the little R before the bolt - it'll make you think twice, but the moves/holds are very solid and really quite easy (5.8ish).
Jul 20, 2005
In retrospect, I s'pose that my comment regarding the protectability of the direct start was a bit misleading. Since beginning the pitch in the chimney on the left offers no options for pro at all, it would be more accurate to say that the direct start actually protects MORE easily.
|By David Bayendor|
From: Denver, CO
Jun 29, 2009
I got to climb this pitch with Vedauwoo legend Craig Luebben during a clinic he was running down here. This is a favorite of his that he feels doesn't get enough traffic. It has a little of everything, a face climb start, good hand and finger cracks, foot jams, hand jams, off width and a chimney if you are so inclined.
This is a strenuous 5.9, but a great training route on top rope, with some great problem solving.
From: Boulder, CO
May 21, 2012
Good all-around technique climb. Doubles of #2 - #4 Camalot would have been nice. You could take a #6 or a Bigbro to protect before/after the bolt if you wanted to sew it up. Surprisingly, the polished water groove has more friction than one would think.
My 60m rope barely made it back to the ground. Tie knots.
|By Tom Kelley|
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
I think this route is really underappreciated. I've always done the direct start as it seemed like the most logical line. In fact I didn't know it wasn't the original start until I looked closely at Rob Kelman's newest book. Either way, it's at the stout end of Vedaowoo 5.9. A good bit harder than Finally, similar to Fantasia but better quality.
|By Jason Albino|
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
We did this on our first trip The Voo in July 2013.
I'm super glad "The Voo" guidebook turned us on to this climb, because it was probably my favorite pitch in five days of climbing there. No idea why some sources referred to this climb as "obscure" and/or "rarely led" - it is easily reachable and obvious. Ascending this pitch required smearing, stemming, chimneying, offwidth, jams, and lieback. There aren't too many pitches I can think of anywhere that request that whole arsenal of skills in a (generally, see below) well-protectable environment.
I chose the leftward chimney start - while not very protectable, the movement seemed rather solid considering my affinity for full-width chimneys, and offered a good slingable gear placement at the exit. After that, the arcing sidecling/undercling flake protected well and set up improbable spaced-out knobby face climbing. I felt the crux move was directly above the singular face bolt, requiring a delicate stem/smear/mantle combination to get established in the chimney/offwidth section behind and to the left. From there, either a well-jammable or fully stemmable (depending on expertise and preference) section led to the anchors on a good ledge (set a piece at the end of the wider crack to protect your follower before traversing to the anchors).
We skipped the other climbs above this and rapped off just barely with a 60m rope (depending on your rope stretch factor, you may have to downclimb ~1-2 feet to finish the rap with a 60m).
Just a killer, killer pitch if you enjoy a thoughtful style of climbing that requests more elegance to climb than it does brutishness. In an effort to gain a wide array of experience, I don't re-climb too many lines in general, but I would definitely do this one repeatedly given the time.