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Falling Rock

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Falling Rock Boulder 
Falling Rock Drainage 
North Canyon Wall 
South Canyon Wall 
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Falling Rock  


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Location: 44.0597, -103.4232 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33,887
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 21, 2002
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Nehemiah Larimer getting prepped to walk the line ...

Description 

Falling Rock is good for a pumpy winter workout, or a forearm burn for an hour or two after work. This area is a limestone walled canyon which stays warm enough to climb in the winter due to south facing rock. There is not a huge quantity of routes, but they are all vertical and less than half a rope length. The parking lot is located at the top of the cliffs, so setting up topropes is very easy, although many routes are bolted. Also, a few cracks are available, so bring a light rack to lead these.

Getting There 

Drive four and a half miles out of Rapid City on highway 44 (Rimrock Highway) from the junction of Jackson Blvd and Canyon Lake Drive. As the road curves to the right, watch for a gravel road leading off to the left. Turn on to this road and immediately is a parking lot for the main area, which has the south facing cliffs and the bulk of the routes. If desired, continue another .7 miles to a pulloff on the left with an old blocked off dirt road. Park here for the north facing cliffs, which are better for warm days.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.0 miles from here

30 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',8],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',5],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Falling Rock:
Garden Party   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   North Canyon Wall
Paperboy Centerfold   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   North Canyon Wall
Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   South Canyon Wall
Getting The Bob   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   South Canyon Wall
Spermatose   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   South Canyon Wall
Two Bits   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   North Canyon Wall
France By Chance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   North Canyon Wall
Men Without Egos   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   South Canyon Wall
Seams to Go   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   North Canyon Wall
Blockhead   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   North Canyon Wall
Killer Wasp From Hell   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   North Canyon Wall
Flatland Fever   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   North Canyon Wall
Adaptation   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   North Canyon Wall
One Finger Solution   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 50'   North Canyon Wall
Browse More Classics in Falling Rock

Featured Route For Falling Rock
Leading Men Without Egos, my buddy who took the pi...

Men Without Egos 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  SD : Falling Rock : South Canyon Wall
To access this route drive south on Falling Rock Rd. past the parking for the North Wall. Continue into canyon and up the otherside. At the top of the hill a blocked road will appear on the left. Park here then hike old road to east. Upon reaching the top of the South Wall continue walking east-northeast along a trail. Aim for the northeast rim of the canyon to the north. Upon reaching the northeast corner of the rim locate a coulair that is north facing and descend. After exiting the coulair, m...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Comments on Falling Rock Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 29, 2011
By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
May 11, 2005
My friend's car was broken into in daylight (11:00 am) last week while parked at the first pulloff. Don't leave your new cams in the car.
By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
May 11, 2005
Can anyone provide better directions to "Falling Rock Boulder"? I can't see bolts on anything out trher but the regular routes.

from the site directions: "There is a large bolted boulder on the northwest side of the canyon." ...and... "Find this boulder near the North Canyon Rim in between the parking area and the downclimbing chimney. "

I've found a large "candidate" boulder, w/ fist crack up the middle and really smooth high east side, that would make some good top rope climbs (if you're up to it), but I don't remember seeing anchors on top. This boulder is below the overhanging section of the North Canyon wall. Also, does anyone have info on the bolted routes on this overhanging section?
By Mikel Cronin
May 8, 2008
Important access issue!
This it to inform all climbers that have or are planning on accessing Victoria Canyon by way of Dark Canyon to boulder or climb NO MORE ACCESS THIS WAY! PRIVATE PROPERTY! It is trespassing if you go in this way no matter where you park. There is another way in by way of Sheridan Lake road when the USFS road opens on May 15th. For more information you can email me through this site.
By jpferb
From: RAPID CITY, SD
Aug 27, 2009
Does anyone know anything about the bolted route about 25 ft climbers right of "Getting the Bob". this route follows the arete to chains about 10ft below the top. Thanks
By Mikel Cronin
Oct 16, 2009
To whom may know
I am putting out a new guide book for Black Hills Limestone due spring 2010. It will include Spearfish, VC and looking at Falling Rock. I do not know the routes for Falling Rock, if anybody can help me out that would be great. This book will have pics of pretty much every wall, not the hand drawn topos like the past. Plese email if you have some input.
Mike
By Mikel Cronin
Dec 19, 2009
Help
Awhile ago I asked for any info on topo's for Falling Rock. Some nice person sent me what they had and I have since lost it. My skills for being organizd in this guide book adventure are being tested to a new level. So if that nice person would please send me the said topo's again I would be forever in debt. Also any information that anybody feels need be in the new Black Hills Limestone book please let me kow ASAP.
Mike
By Ron Yahne
Apr 12, 2010
To all Falling Rock Climbers- The Forest Service intends to remove the tree on the edge of the North Wall that is the traditional anchor for a couple of routes. Turns out the roots are rotting, so please don't use this tree as an anchor in the meantime, it should be gone soon.
By Ron Yahne
Apr 12, 2010
Found rope- Someone left a rope at Falling Rock which can be claimed by contacting me with the description
By Mikel Cronin
Apr 13, 2010
The BHCC has said they will donate 10 new sets of glue in anchors for falling rock. I will be putting them in to replace the nasty ones on the north wall. Any more ideas on good places for them please let me know.
Mike
By Ron Yahne
Apr 13, 2010
Well, yeah, how about where the dead tree is?
By Mikel Cronin
Apr 14, 2010
Ron
I think that would be a great location. Not surprised that the tree is coming down since it's about as old at you are. All things eventually become old and weak!
By Ron Yahne
Apr 14, 2010
I knew that tree when it was a mere sapling. Don't be so disrespectful
By DakotaToni
From: Rapid City
Apr 15, 2010
LOL!
By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
Apr 16, 2010
Mike, how about anchors above "France by Chance"....?
By Mikel Cronin
Jul 29, 2011
Here is the latest and greatest on Spearfish Canyon, The VC and Other Black Hills Limestone. There has been another delay on the printing. So Sharpend and I have worked out a deal on the e-books. I am now selling e-books for the same price of $28.00. So if you have prepaid for a book already I will give your contact information to Sharpend and they will send you the e-book link then you will get a hard copy when they arrive. If you want an early e-book, give me your email so I can invoice you and get an e-book on the way to you. If you have any questions on this deal please contact me. Remember 5% of sales through me goes to the local bolt and anchor repair fund. My contact info can be found at blackhillsclimbingguide.com