Falling Aspirations 5.9- PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | chris21 on Jun 12, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Falling Aspirations is the black line, Weisner's D...
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Description P-1 starts 100 feet right of Weisner's Dike goes up to a small overlap, pull the overlap move up and left to belay
P-2 go left (75feet) and up(30feet) across runnout slab to a comfortable belay
P-3 move right and up over a small roof then go up and slightly right to another good belay at an old fixed pin
P-4 and P-5 go straight up towards Weisner's corner, grassy belay for P-4, hanging belay for P-5 or you can belay from a ledge by a tree 20 feet lower
P-6 finish up Weisner's Corner and belay off old man remnants
pitch 1 is about 160 feet, pitch two is about 90 feet, pitches 3,4 and 5 are full rope length pitches (200 feet), and pitch 6 is about 120 feet
Be careful of loose rock, especially on the middle pitches
Location route starts 100 feet right of Weisner's Dike, hike off right from the top, don't leave anything at the bottom.
Protection BD cams .5, .75, .75, 1, 1, 2, tricams .5, 1, 1.5, 2, and two sets of stoppers, there was one fixed pin.
| Comments on Falling Aspirations |
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By burlap submariner
Sep 15, 2011
| anyone know the deal with the condition of this route after the rock fa ll? Ive heard that it was re-bolted and cleaned of some loose rock. |
By Frank F
Oct 11, 2011
| The P1 description here varies significantly from that in Sykes book. And that P1 description should be modified. What we ended up doing involved a fingertips undercling (not a crack) and a sloping pegmatite slab traverse to the bolted belay (hardly a ramp. Was I off route? Yet everything seemed to be right where Sykes describes things to be.) Whatever that was, it seemed considerably harder than 5.6-5.7. |
By burlap submariner
Nov 5, 2011
| yes, thank you frank, I did the same damn thing, a left angling fingertip traverse that was at least 9+. from the bolts atop pitch one you can rap and top rope an awesome direct pitch at 10c, excellent pitch, if it was well protected with two bolts it would certainly be more of a classic on cannon. |
By chris21
Nov 11, 2012
| When I did Weisner's back in August I noticed that the overlap I mention on pitch 1 may be gone and the block that was the comfortable belay for pitch 2 is gone so my descriptions of those pitches are not accurate. If someone who has climbed this recently would write up a current description for those pitches, I will change the route description here.
Thanks,
- Chris |
By chris21
Apr 26, 2013
| I think the overlap I mention in the description may be where you both did a "fingertips traverse" underneath. We went straight over it then went left and set a gear anchor. We didn't know what route we were on at the time and didn't figure it out until I got a guidebook a couple weeks later. |
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