Fallen Angels  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Chris Reveley Submitted By:  Aaron Martinuzzi on Jan 31, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

On the 9+ slab and thin crack section of the secon...

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A really fun two-pitch climb that initially runs parallel to the the one-pitch route Deception Past, Fallen Angels starts in a shallow, licheny, left-facing, left-leaning corner about 10 feet left of two pine trees that are very close to the wall. Its second pitch ascends an obvious, right-facing corner through the roof above.

P1 - Lieback the corner for a couple moves before moving to the face and a thin crack above. From here, climb toward a diminutive white pine beneath a roof, where some pro can be had. Sack up and make your way into the crux seam, clipping two bolts along the way to lower-angle ground. Belay off some webbing and trad gear at a decent stance beneath a bulge. 5.10b, ~ 80'.

P2 - Climb through the bulge, and a second one, to gain a very shallow, right-facing corner (RPs, offsets helpful) and climb the face around the crack until you're in the base of the big corner. Stem, fingerlock, and lieback your way up the awesome corner until the roof forces you to escape left to a ledge with bolts. 5.10a/b, ~ 90'.

Rappel from these anchors to a second set at the top of Deception Past, from which a second rappel can be made to the ground.

Location 

Fallen Angels ascends a shallow, left-facing, left-leaning corner about ten feet left of two pines that are immediately in front of a a cleaner, left-facing corner. It appears a bit lichen-y, but the climb leaves the dihedral quickly. The first crux of the route is identified by locating two bolts left of a seam about 40 feet up the wall. The second pitch climbs the large, right-facing corner at the left margin of the large roof system in the middle of the wall.

Protection 

Bust out the small stuff for this route. P1 goes on microcams - TCUs/C3s from 00 up - and RPs, and the first part of P2 takes small cams and offset micronuts. The finishing corner protects well with nuts - there are a placements for a #2 and #3 Camalot on P2, but one could easily rack only micro cams and nuts for this climb.

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In the awesome dihedral of the upper 2nd pitch.

Second pitch dihedral.