Fallen Angel Variation  5.9+ R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  George Lowe Submitted By:  mountainsense on Mar 30, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>> Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing. Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access. In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

If you've climbed Satan's Corner (5.8, G. Lowe, E. Anderson) before and happen to find yourself back at the Dihedrals, why not give the Fallen Angel Variation a go? Don't be too overwhelmed by its 'R' rating in the Ruckman guide; if you're solid at the grade, don't miss the opportunity to experience a bit of old-school boldness! Climb the first pitch of Satan's Corner, then continue up and right along flakes and a discontinuous crack to reach the top of the wall. The gear leading up to the 'R' section is solid, and the fall clean.

Location 

Climb the initial handcracks of Satan's Corner to a ledge with an obvious slung horn--this is the original belay for the first pitch of Satan's. To descend, rap from a single-bolt anchor--as of March '10--to the shared anchors atop Stem the Tide and Lisa's Shoulder.

Protection 

Bring a standard LCC rack; doubles in small wires to finger-sized cams may be useful, but not necessary. The single bolt above can be backed up with a hand-sized piece.