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 ADVANCED
Dihedrals Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black and White John and Mary T,TR 
Equipment Overhang T 
Equipment Overhang Right T 
Fallen Angel Variation T 
Half-A-Finger T 
Lisa's Shoulder T 
Satan's Corner T 
Satan's Nook T 
Stem the Tide S,TR 

Fallen Angel Variation 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Lowe
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: mountainsense on Mar 30, 2010

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Description 

If you've climbed Satan's Corner (5.8, G. Lowe, E. Anderson) before and happen to find yourself back at the Dihedrals, why not give the Fallen Angel Variation a go? Don't be too overwhelmed by its 'R' rating in the Ruckman guide; if you're solid at the grade, don't miss the opportunity to experience a bit of old-school boldness! Climb the first pitch of Satan's Corner, then continue up and right along flakes and a discontinuous crack to reach the top of the wall. The gear leading up to the 'R' section is solid, and the fall clean.

Location 

Climb the initial handcracks of Satan's Corner to a ledge with an obvious slung horn--this is the original belay for the first pitch of Satan's. To descend, rap from a single-bolt anchor--as of March '10--to the shared anchors atop Stem the Tide and Lisa's Shoulder.

Protection 

Bring a standard LCC rack; doubles in small wires to finger-sized cams may be useful, but not necessary. The single bolt above can be backed up with a hand-sized piece.


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By mountainsense
Mar 30, 2010

With the advent of modern micro-widgets, this line may not warrant its 'R' rating. It felt similar to Lisa's Shoulder (5.9 R, E. Eliason, D. Raymond, 1969) in difficulty, and should clean up nicely with a few more ascents!
By Zac Robinson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 30, 2010

I would say that the gear is there, but the somewhat suspect nature of the rock leaves a little more doubt in each hand and foot and nut placement. Keep your cool and you should be fine. A few small cams and some skilled nuttery will get you up this thing just fine.
By mountainsense
Mar 31, 2010

hehehe... you said nuttery