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k. The Slime Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
April Showers T 
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 
Blue Stink, The T 
Bragg-Hatch T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Comedy In Three Acts T 
Falled on Account of Strain T 
Frustration Syndrome T 
Golden Showers T 
Kligfield's Follies T 
Last Frontier T 
Moondance T 
Simple Suff T 
Stand, The T 
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 
Sundance T 
Tangled Up and Blue T 
Techno-Suff TR 
Wasp T 

Falled on Account of Strain 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Russ Raffa & Eliot Williams - 1977
Page Views: 6,115
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Eric in the midst of things.

Description 

Falled on Account of Strain is a great climb that culminates in a huge roof finish. This is one of the easiest lines up the Slime Wall, but it's no gimmie.

Start about 100' right of Simple Suff and 20' left of April Showers, at a thin crack/seam.

P1: Head up a nice but runout face left of the seam/crack to a bolted anchor. 5.9+, 80'.

P2: Belay, or continue up and right to the massive roof. It's difficult to discern exactly where to pull this roof, but you basically have to do a very big move off a small undercling to reach up over the roof. Once you do this crux move, you'll see some fixed pins that reassure you that you're going the right way. Continue to the belay/rap anchor. 5.10b, 80'.

Rappel 100' with one rope.

Protection 

Standard Rack. #3 Camalot useful for a wide horizontal crack on the first pitch.


Photos of Falled on Account of Strain Slideshow Add Photo
In the P2 overhangs
In the P2 overhangs
Pulling the last lip
Pulling the last lip
Tricia on the thin start of Falled on Account of S...
Tricia on the thin start of Falled on Account of S...
Eric Ratkowski contemplating his near-term future.
Eric Ratkowski contemplating his near-term future.
Getting horizontal on Falled.
Getting horizontal on Falled.
Divnamite going up the first overhang
Divnamite going up the first overhang
Rich Gottlieb after the hard moves on P1.
Rich Gottlieb after the hard moves on P1.
Rich Gottlieb backing up the pin above the second ...
Rich Gottlieb backing up the pin above the second ...
Rich Gottlieb after traversing right low down on P...
Rich Gottlieb after traversing right low down on P...
Falled P2
Falled P2
Rich Gottlieb on the roofs, linking P1 and P2.
Rich Gottlieb on the roofs, linking P1 and P2.
Boris pulling the Lip on Falled On Account of Stra...
Boris pulling the Lip on Falled On Account of Stra...

Comments on Falled on Account of Strain Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 10, 2014
By Denis O'Connor
Apr 13, 2006

This excellent route is even better when climbed as a single pitch. To do so, it's easier to take a straight line up to the roof rather than heading left to clip the bolt belay atop P1 and then traversing back right.
By David Stowe
Aug 11, 2008

This route brings a smile to my face every time I do it. Just about as much fun as you can have on a one pitch route. Do it as one pitch, not at all necessary to break it up into two. After you get your gear in, in the middle of the huge overhangs, take a look around and soak in the great exposure. Don't be intimidated by the size of the overhang. Just imagine how good the holds have to be for a roof of that size to be 10b.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 13, 2011

At 5'2", this shorty had no difficulty pulling the roof(s). Awesome climb. P1 is a bit scary, run out and slabby
By paulmadry
Aug 17, 2011

I can't belive that a roof like that is 5.10b
WOW!!!
Just don't get sucked into traversing far right at second overhand- i did (there is a well chalked up, good holds horizontal). Just a bit right of the bolt and reach.
By Michael G
Aug 22, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Paul - it's a pin, not a bolt.
By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 22, 2011

It's all there, but a really tough on-sight climb. I hung at the roof - but loved it still!
By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
Apr 18, 2013

Nobody commented on the beginning runout. A 5.9 move at 15+ feet off the deck could break your ankles, but is a lot of fun for sure. Did i miss some gear before the hand traverse? All and all a stellar route and mind blowing as my first clean gunks 5.10!

I too went too far right on the last roof and ended up pumped, brushing dried grass off crimps until I went down and got back left.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

The Williams guidebook describes the first pitch as starting with 5.6 R face climbing "a few feet" left of the thin seam. Maybe I'm a sissy but we could not find any such thing. Ended up doing a LONG traverse in from the left(5.7ish) to avoid the apparent 5.8+/5.9 moves 15' off the deck. Once you get the .75 in the horizontal it's fun crimpy 5.9 into some more run out 5.7 to a horizontal and then the bolts. Pitch 2 is pumpy and fun. I took a fall onto the piton from the last lip. You could back it up if you have more endurance than me.
By Ross Exler
From: New York
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I linked the two pitches, going straight up as described by Denis. No need to go left to the anchor and then back right. With my 70m rope, my partner was able to do a single rope rap from the top, with a few feet to spare.
By rogerbenton
Nov 15, 2013

Man, what a route. Definitely do it in one pitch. Big smiles, thumping pulse. Made my day.
By Andrew Casler
From: Ithaca, NY
Sep 9, 2014

I linked P1 and P2 this weekend, but broke the ceiling farther right than most of the climbers who are pictured on this page.

Gear beta and route description:

I went about 20 ~ 25 feet right of the P1 bolts to a fractured, bulging rock just beneath the ceiling - which had many .75 placements in horizontals, but a shallow blue alien placement on more solid rock to the right - then up (crux) to a chalked horizontal-pancake jug that took a red camalot, then right and up again to jugs, and finally traversed 6 feet left to the finish. Didn't see any pitons, but it felt like 5.10 a/b, and I found a way to get past a seemingly-big reach.

After seeing the mountain project pictures I was worried that I went off route, but I'm not sure because the next climb over is 10d R, and it finishes even farther right.
By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Sep 19, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

An incredible route! I thought the first pitch was very easy for 5.9. Perhaps a little thin but the gear and hold are all there. Do the whole thing in one pitch! I would recommend skipping the bolted anchors because they are quite a ways left of the line plus the climbing is very easy from the bolts to the roof.
By cPay
From: Riverdale, NY
Oct 10, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

for those that have onsighted this climb, good job! pretty touch to read where to pull the last roof, and its one spot! all the chalk all over the place is incredibly misleading, I traversed to the right too far, on a large flake jug that should NOT be touched, that thing flexed/cracked. Hanging out, locking off trying to find where to pull, definitely made this feel hard, not so hard for 10b once you know that move :)
btw, I lead this with a 60m rope and and built my own anchor at the low point of the fixed one, and lowered to the ground just to the end of my rope.