Fall of Man
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Previously excluded from the Mountain Project because I couldn't give it sixty million stars, but accurately described on rockclimbing.com: "Fall of Man, 5.13b. This route gets progressively harder until you take a long whipper at the top."
I remember reading somewhere that Fall of Man was the first "futuristic" line in the VRG. It is a world-class stretch of perfect limestone... a breathtaking and outrageously intimidating line up the very center of the Blasphemy Wall.
Climb up the steep A-shaped recess on hand jams and pockets to an intermediate anchor (this is Fall of Mouse I believe, maybe a 5.11 something?), don't stop, and instead perform a powerful move to an angling hold... this can be a body tension reach or deadpoint, but either way it's a dramatic entry onto the upper wall. Follow vertical slots and pockets up 50' of gently overhanging climbing past many difficult moves and hard earned clips, resting at a ledge or higher at a hueco just as the angle eases to vertical. Say goodbye to your belayer and launch up into the slab crux!!! Several clips worth of terror, jake brakes, and beautifully sculpted pockets and edges culminate with a final 20' runout to the chains.
Usually in situ draws. A very stretchy 70m is required to lower off the chains, but it is probably better to work the route from the last two bolts.
|By Michael Sokoloff|
From: Spokane, WA
Jan 8, 2010
I've got to try this one especially since it seems like we like a lot of the same types of routes.
What is a jake brake?